Tag Archives: Tourism

So, How Was The Journey, Steve?

Monday 28th June 2021. Both my wife and I had read many newspaper articles concerning likely apprehension about doing things that were once considered normal – international travel, visiting places and, you know, talking to people and that. And, of course, we completely pooh-poohed them because clearly that was rubbish…until we actually had to do some of these things. It’s not that we’ve lost the knack of talking to people or anything; we still had mastery of the basics of social interaction, but yet there was a definite tingle of apprehension in the air as we waited for our taxi. It’s been nearly two years since we last undertook a journey of significantly more than 50 miles, far less taken a step onto foreign soil; and we’ve lost the familiarity with the process (book the taxi, don’t forget the passports, tell the neighbours, etc etc) which is somewhat disconcerting. Add to that the other stuff that the pandemic has thrust upon us – pack masks, register your trip, arrange tests upon return – and it’s all too easy to worry that Something Will Go Wrong and we’ll spend our fortnight in the Keflavik departure lounge.

Our domestic arrangements, also, were slightly more complicated than for previous trips, though, thankfully considerably cheaper. Cheaper because we no longer had to engage a live-in carer for Jane’s mother whilst we were away; and more complicated because now we had to worry about practical things like leaving an empty fridge, cancelling the milk and turning the heating down. All first world problems, I agree, but still items that added to the general sense of excitement, adventure and slight terror.

Anyway: taxi arranged – it might have been nearly two years since the last one, but our local taxi firm still recognised our phone number and so knew what address they had to get to, which I found quite impressive; flowers watered; people organised to look after the house whilst we’re away; bags into the taxi and off we went.

In the end, the journey from home to aircraft was completely routine with two exceptions. The first was the wearing of masks, which one accepts as a necessary evil; the second was a pleasant surprise, in that we weren’t expected to check in our own bags at an impersonal terminal. We had a good old-fashioned visit to an Icelandair desk where a nice lady took our bags from us and handed out boarding passes. She also, it has to be said, checked our vaccination and Icelandic pre-registration status, so it was clear they were paying attention.

Thence to security. Heathrow Terminal 2 was pretty quiet,

but The Powers That Be had still managed to arrange things so that the usual pinch points still featured a slow-moving queue. But all was well and we soon found ourselves, via a short detour to duty-free to buy some scotch for an old contact of Jane’s in Iceland, at the Caviar House and Prunier bar for our usual pre-flight indulgence.

That was a nice brush with the familiar, as was our subsequent trudge to the departure gate which, according to my fitness monitor, was half a mile and which as usual was at the very furthest reaches of the terminal building. It was worth travelling in the walking boots, after all, and not just to save suitcase space.

Mask-wearing aside, the rest of the journey was exactly as it used to be in the Good Old Days. One could take the masks off whilst consuming refreshments and beverages, so I bought an extra beer to prolong the pleasure of being mask-free. The Icelandair 757 was perfectly comfortable, and, furthermore, provided an opportunity to be emotionally prepared for Icelandic (spelt “scandalous”) prices; two beers, an apple juice and a couple of tapas snack packs set us back £28. But it’s a holiday, so it doesn’t matter. It also taught me that Google Pay on the phone works even in airline mode, which quite impressed me, actually.

The flight was otherwise uneventful, and we came into Keflavik airport just enough ahead of time that they weren’t quite ready with the jetway. On the way in, we caught our first sight of Iceland.

(Look, I know it’s an undistinguished photo, but I want to confirm that the sun was actually shining; I have low confidence that this will be the case for much of this holiday, so just wanted some blue sky for the record, OK?)

The transit through the airport was frighteningly efficient. We were able to produce the right paperwork to convince the authorities that we were probably not plague-ridden and then actually had to dash across the baggage hall to retrieve our bags from the carousel before they disappeared back into the bowels of the building. Our chauffeuse, Sandra, awaited us and we merely had to pop into the adjoining Covid test facility so that we could be swabbed before Sandra whisked us into Reykjavik. This was further than I thought it would be; over 50km. This was my first hint of the size of the island – it’s bigger than Ireland, which I was only just beginning to realise. En route, the terrifying efficiency of the Icelandic Covid response showed itself further in a text that said that I had to quarantine in the hotel room until I got a text telling me all was OK.

So here we are, in the Sand Hotel, in our quarantine cell.

It has the facility to boil water and we brought our own teabags (just as well!), so we could do worse as a place to possess our souls in patience pending the release back into society.

Assuming that we are indeed not infected with the lurgy, our dumb luck continues – Iceland has just announced the removal of all Covid restrictions, so we will be able to enjoy the rest of the holiday without the cursed facemasks! Stay tuned to see how it unfolds….

So – Oman, eh?

Our final day was spent entirely at leisure, giving us ample time to wander the grounds of the hotel taking photos – it really is very nicely arranged.

Then, with a cry of “Ready, Chedi, Go” ((c) the distaff side) it was time to pack, take a final contemplative gin and ponder on the last few days. At this point, let me remind you about that Times article about the country and its Sultan.

I think the keys to what we saw in our ten days in Oman, and particularly our time under canvas, are: Planning; Preparation; and Persistence.

Despite my carping about camping, the team at Hud Hud Travels did a simply outstanding job of making it appear easy to offer top service whilst operating under difficult situations, such as having a kitchen up a mountain or in the desert, for God’s sake!

Above: Lakshan in his desert kitchen.

Above: Chanaka and Patrick in the service area of their desert tent.

Patrick and Devon managed the camps superbly and I still find it awesome that all that stuff was set up and run specifically and only for the two of us – planning and preparation of the highest quality.

Add to this the enthusiasm, energy and expertise of Rashid, and the result was that Jane and I were able to experience aspects of Oman that were simply not available any other way. The luxurious comfort of our stay at the Chedi was hugely relaxing and enjoyable, but also felt starkly at odds with the realities of life we’d seen in the previous days.

I still have strong reservations about camping, but I also admit that my experience would have been less trying with better planning and preparation on my part. Remembering to take my walking boots would have helped, for example, as would a more suitable choice of night attire and other footwear.

But the award for most admirable planning, preparation and particularly persistence has to go to the people of Oman who live in the desert and the mountains. For them, there is no electricity; water quite possibly arrives only once a week on the back of a 4×4 truck; food may well be shared between those who have and those who have not. Theirs is a tough, tough life, unimaginable to a soft westerner such as myself, perched precariously on a higher level of the Maslow pyramid; and yet they live it with patience and determination and they live it well. It was remarkable to see the effusiveness, humour and mutual respect in their interactions as we experienced the different environments. For these people, planning and preparation is not just for comfort, it’s a matter of life and death; and their persistence in making it work is at once admirable and bemusing.

I now return to a life with all mod cons and creature comforts, and I do so gladly, for I have been habituated to such a life and can’t easily cope with any other. But at least I do so with my eyes opened wider and my horizons broadened further, thanks to the efforts of all of the people who have made the last ten days truly memorable.

Oman Day 7 – Back to “civilisation” with a bump

Wednesday Feb 27. So this was it – our goodbye to the camps that the Hud Hud Travels team had so splendidly set up and run just for us – sad in a way, but holding out the tingling anticipation, at the end of the day, of:

  • getting online
  • unlimited running hot water
  • unlimited electricity

I may not be as jaundiced about camping as I was earlier in the week, but still my heart leapt at the prospect of all of the above.

However, there was packing to be done and breakfast to be had before we said our goodbyes and headed off for the day’s adventures. These largely centred around a drive over the Hajar mountains, widely touted as the most scenic drive in these ‘ere parts. Touted correctly, too, in my opinion. The road itself is a bit of a bone shaker

(and should not under any circumstances be undertaken in anything but a robust 4×4 – see later) but offers some really spectacular scenery.

You’ll notice in the last of these that there’s a village nestling among the savage scenery. This, and others, are inhabited by people who have lived in the Hajar mountains for generations. For them, life is simple, spelt t-o-u-g-h, but it’s one they know and when the government, in an enlightened attempt to make life better for them, builds an entire village for them

the uptake is quite low, according to Rashid. However, the younger generation are more prepared to move and so eventually social housing projects such as this may well be fully populated, and the problems of delivering water, electricity and life’s other essentials to the remote areas of the Hajar mountains may well diminish.

At the high point of the drive is the Salma plateau. If you want my opinion, it’s a bit up-and-down to be credibly called a plateau

but I suppose everything’s relative. Anyhoo, the most interesting feature of the plateau are the “beehive tombs”, some 28 of which can be found here, with many more in other locations such as Al-Ayn and Al Khtum.

Above are two of the well-preserved ones, but many have decayed. The workmanship on them is quite remarkable.

Jane crawled inside one to see what it was like inside.

As you continue the drive, you can look back and see the ones which have survived over the centuries.

On we drove, enjoying the spectacular mountain scenery.

until we came to a village nestled in the middle of all this rockery!

The question naturally occurred to me – why the actual do people set up a habitation in such remote parts? Rashid’s answer was simple – they found water, and had developed skills in locating sources of water which enabled them to perpetuate this life, tough as it is. This village is called Qorun (I think) and, indeed, is centred around a well.

Above you can see the tanks to which well water is pumped before being loaded on to the water trucks for distribution to the remote parts of the village and other mountain sites, too.

A diversion was provided by a baby donkey, who wondered if we might have some food.

There are wild donkeys in the mountains, but also some which are owned by villagers, along with goats and sheep. If you look in detail at the layout of the village, you can see where the animals are kept.

Theirs are the shelters extending out from caves and hollows higher up the rocks to centre and right of the picture above – but those used to be the actual domiciles of the villagers themselves in times gone by!

After a while we reached the top and crossed over to the point where we could see the coast, and we stopped for lunch in front of yet another stunning view.

(The faint line across the middle is actually the horizon, with the ocean meeting the sky.)

Rashid spent some time explaining elements of the view to us, whilst around us there was a certain amount of wildlife activity. We were inspected by goats

and, delightfully, Egyptian vultures.

(we think we spotted a Turkey vulture as well, but are not entirely sure. It’s amazing that Oman has to import its wildlife from other middle eastern countries, don’t you think?)

Lunch over, we made the descent to the coastal plain. This is where a 4×4 – and an experienced driver like Rashid – becomes essential, as the road is incredibly steep in places – difficult to convey photographically, but here’s my best shots.

We saw a few more features on the way down: a face in the rocks;

the caves where mountain people used to live;

and another government housing project intended to encourage these folk to live in better accommodation which so far languishes mainly empty, since the people refuse to move.

We finally made it down to the coastal plain and spent a few minutes cruising the (lovely, smooth, tarmac) coastal road near a town called Fins looking for gazelles, since this is the coastal end of a reserve called Ras al Shajar. We saw a few, but they’re quite shy, so I have many photos of their back ends as they ran away.

Then Rashid took us to see something that is, on the face of it, a bit strange – a Frankincense tree. It was rather marvellous to see something in real life that I had previously only come across as a biblical reference. So here it is – the only Frankincense tree in northern Oman:

There are, Rashid told us, many in southern Oman, around Salalah, but this is the only one in north Oman. I’m not sure I can understand why people haven’t taken cuttings from it to make other trees (because you can see where cuttings have been taken), but there we are. Rashid also told us about male and female Frankincense. Looking closely at the tree, this is a patch of female

and this of male

They are subtly different in the scent they produce, apparently, but I’m only a bloke so I don’t really understand these things. The tree was in flower, so here’s your chance to see Frankincense flowers.

Our next tourist stop-off (because by this stage I’d begun to feel that we were ticking the boxes – gazelles, tick, Frankincense tree, tick) was Hawiyat Najm, or the Sink-hole park. There’s maybe nothing unusual in yer average sink hole, but this one is slightly unusual in that it’s fed by both fresh water, from the mountains, and salt water, from the sea. Anyway, there are steps down into it and you can go swim in it if you like – after you’ve paid to get in, of course. Like Wadi Bani Khaled, this is very much a tourist spot, but it’s quite striking.

So there we were – all the boxes ticked and it was finally time to go to the hotel which would be our home for the next four nights – the Chedi, in Muscat. This is a seriously posh joint and I’m entirely pleased to report that we were upgraded to one of their Executive Suites, and so have separate bedroom, bathroom, terrace and lounge, which is where I sit and type, for these blogs don’t write themselves, you know. Jane has pointed out that all this luxury seems a bit fake after the gritty reality of life in the mountains or desert. I kind of understand what she’s trying to say, but I’ll grab that unlimited electricity and hot running internet with both hands and be grateful.

Tomorrow, we get to tour the highlights of Muscat, so tune in to the next installment to find out how that went. ‘Bye for now!