Sunday August 25 2024 – Before we could get to today’s keenly-awaited excursion, we had to deal with the non-trivial matters of getting up, showered and dressed within the confines of our small cabin. Although it required some fairly precise choreography between the two of us in order not to be bumping into each other all the time, it was (for me, at least) much less awkward than I had been fearing. The bathroom area in our little cabin is small, but very well-organised, and doing the morning’s ablutions was remarkably trouble-free. I was also quite surprised to have slept reasonably well; my last experience on a sleeper was from London to Edinburgh and it was ghastly – noisy, uneven and uncomfortable. The Ghan was rather noisy at times – there was what felt like shunting done during the night, leading to lots of creaking and groaning, some of it on my part; and it was accompanied by a certain amount of lurching (the carriage, not me), but throughout all that we both managed to grab a reasonable amount of sleep.
We got a good breakfast, swiftly and competently served by the crew, who really work hard and do a good job; our section manager was a lass called Esther, who, as well as helping dish out the meals, was excellent at ensuring that we knew where we had to be and when, and that we had the right bits of identification card on our “Look At Me, I’m A Tourist!” lanyards.
I have had a great and abiding love of aerial photography, having had the excitement of my first views from an aeroplane at the age of nine. (Hence, on this trip I’ve been lugging around with me a drone which I haven’t really had a chance to use yet.) This love of aerial photography means that today’s excursion is one which I’ve been looking forward to with considerable excitement. First, we had to get to Alice Springs (or Mparntwe, as it’s known to its indigenous owners), through countryside of a type which was really rather familiar by now – scrubby and burnt in places.
At about 11.30am we pulled in,
and, as is standard in large-scale tourist activities everywhere, were sorted into buses to take passengers onward to their various activities for the day. Our bus was driven by the usual bluff Australian chap, in this case called Gerry, who was good enough to take us up to a viewpoint so we could take in A Town Called Alice (see what I did there?).
The viewpoint has a complicated aboriginal name
but we know it as Anzac Hill, which leads to the War Memorial.
On the way up, signs remind visitors of the many contributions to the war efforts of the 20th and 21st centuries made by solders from Australia and New Zealand, from WWI through to Iraq.
The lookout offers a great set of views over Alice Springs.
The gap above is where the road south leads out of town. This is the Stuart Highway, the longest road in Australia, which has been with us since Darwin and will still be with us after some 2,700km as we reach Port Augusta, just 300km short of Adelaide, the ultimate destination of this train ride.
Apparently, property prices in Alice are very high despite its rather remote location. This is because it can’t expand any further without infringing on indigenous land or cattle stations.
On the way down from the lookout, the backs of the commemorative signs are also decorated with reminders of the various conflicts.
Gerry also drove us around Alice to get a view of the place. It’s unremarkable – just this town, you know? – and it’s kind of difficult to capture the feel of a place from a moving coach, but it does have (at least) a couple of striking murals.
Slightly frustratingly (because I wanted to get on with the day’s main activity), we had to have lunch first; this was served to the Ghan’s passengers at a place called Madigans.
It’s worth mentioning that the stewards from the train were part of the service, so their responsibilities carry on even off the train; they really do earn their corn.
And then – at last! – we were off on our excursion proper. Here is a clue as to what we were about to do.
It’s a Cessna 208 Super Caravan, an aeroplane with which we first became familiar in Madagascar as we flew north to Anjajavy. Two of these aircraft awaited the group of 12 undertaking today’s flights, and there was a ripple of amusement as one lady, who was maybe one egg short of a clutch, couldn’t get to grips with the idea of a caravan being anything other than something you go camping in.
It was interesting to see the GABA (Great Australian Bugger All) from above,
though the landscape was actually very varied and interesting.
It included Pine Gap, the local US spy base near Alice,
and a not-inconsiderable bush fire
whose smoke affected the view across some salt flats.
After about an hour in the air, though, we caught the first sight of the reason we’d undertaken this 90-minute flight.
Yes, there it is, top right.
Uluru, or Ayers Rock in the old language. The pilot made sure that each side of the plane had a good view of this remarkable lump of masonry, which has a variety of aspects, depending on the angle of view.
It is, of course, an iconic part of the Australian landscape, and a considerable tourist magnet, as shown by the size of the local airstrip
and the number and variety of accommodation opportunities in the vicinity, such as this – another one which looks suspiciously like camping.
What we hadn’t known about beforehand was another remarkable rock formation quite close by Uluru, which we also flew by for a look –
The Olgas, or Kata Tjuṯa in the local indigenous language. There are 36 domes in this extraordinary formation.
The day’s aerial excitement wasn’t over, either. We landed at Ayers Rock airport to refuel and took off once again
to fly back to Alice, but we took a slightly different route back, over another fantastic formation called King’s Canyon – another local landmark which we hadn’t known about before today.
Apparently, one can go walking around the canyon, which sounds like a very interesting way of passing a morning.
By this time, the sun was going down, and the angle of the light really highlighted the considerable amount of geology that goes on in the area.
Among all of this huge landscape, one could spot the occasional outpost of civilisation
and looking at it in its greater context, one could only wonder
Why? Why there? What’s going on?
The ride back was actually more interesting than the ride out, but eventually it was time to land back at Alice
and be taken to our evening meal, which was at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, the original site of the first European settlement in central Australia, one of twelve stations along the Overland Telegraph Line.
It was billed as “dinner under the stars”
which was fine in theory, but somewhat overshadowed by the clouds which cropped up and made seeing the stars a bit tricky. A chap called Tom tried to show us some of the local astral geography, but it required a certain feat of imagination to get much out of his undoubtedly enthusiastic efforts. There was also the possibility of a camel ride
and a band entertained us just loudly enough to make conversation difficult,
so we took the opportunity of the first bus back to the train in order take a rest after a memorable day. I know that seeing Uluru is something that practically every tourist visiting Australia will do, but our view of it today was a great pleasure; and to see the other formations in the area was, if anything, even more exciting.
We have one more day on the train, or, more accurately, largely off the train; tomorrow we spend much of the day visiting a place called Coober Pedy where life is largely underground for a variety of reasons. This is an intriguing prospect and one I hope you’ll return to these pages to find out more about.
