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Melbourne – Modern and Historic, Handsome and Scruffy

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Monday 2 September – Having escaped satisfactorily from Kangaroo Island, we now had to escape from Adelaide via a flight to Melbourne yesterday. The process of dropping the bags off was trouble-free, but on arrival at the airport security, it looked like it might take us some time.

Appearances were deceptive; the queue moved swiftly and we got through security smoothly. It helped that small liquids and phones could stay in bags and the only things that needed putting in separate trays were laptops and aerosols. Generally, I’ve been impressed with air travel within Australia.  We’ve used Qantas-based flights so far and their online check-in and at-airport bag drop processes have been well-designed and swift.

Our next flight will be Virgin Australia; I will report back on their User Experience.

The weather for the flight was largely cloudy, so there weren’t many aerial photos to be taken.  However, as we approached Melbourne, we got our first glimpse of the city

and I noticed that some areas appeared to be very densely-packed housing; so densely-packed that at first I couldn’t make out whether the objects were parked cars or houses. This, for example, is the Mt Atkinson area west of Melbourne. The houses appear to be really crammed together.

We had arranged to stay at a friend’s airbnb apartment in the Southbank area of the city, and accordingly followed instructions to pick up the keys at a local convenience store. The code number we had been told to provide proved to be “invalid”, and so there was a great deal of to-and-fro and sitting outside cafés drinking coffee whilst we waited for some kind of resolution. There had been a delay in the cleaners dropping off the keys and so we eventually got our hands on them and headed off to the apartment… where the keys we’d been given turned out to be the wrong ones.

Bugger.

To cut a long story short, we ended up staying the night in a hotel, the rather oddly-named but perfectly comfortable Mantra hotel, where we had an apartment. With milk in the fridge and Earl Grey beside the mugs. The fridge thing gave me an idea, so I went out to get some gin and tonic, which was available in a very convenient local grocery store. And so passed our first night in Melbourne.

A word about the weather, here: we had been booked on a “moonlight kayak tour” on the Yarra River which runs through the city. However, as the exceedingly lumpy but nicely-handled landing at Melbourne showed, it was very windy, and we’d received a message apologising for cancelling the kayak tour. As it happened, given the difficulty with the keys, it was just as well.

Yesterday’s kayak tour was supposed to be our first real glimpse of Melbourne, but the weather put the kybosh on that. We had a three-hour small group walking tour of the “Lanes and Arcades” of Melbourne booked for today, so this was now our chance to get a flavour of the place.  We headed to the meeting point in Federation Square,

where it was reasonably easy to find our guide, Isabel, who was wearing a very distinctive yellow beret. Imagine our surprise, however, when the other members of the “small group” turned out to be Stephanie and Garret, an American couple who had been, alongside the Great Danes, our companions on our Kangaroo Island tour! Life is enhanced by such coincidences.

We actually passed some interesting sights en route to the start of our tour;

Striking building exterior

Melbourne Arts Centre

View across the Yarra

Federation Square is just by St. Paul’s Cathedral

and Flinders Street Station, which is an impressive building (more pictures of it later).

There had apparently been a move to replace the clocks in the picture above with something more modern and, well, operational, but the outcry ensured that the classic clocks remain there above the station entrance.

As in Adelaide, there are many handsome buildings in Melbourne, although everything is more densely-packed and the high-rises rise higher and overwhelm the smaller, older buildings more.

Above is the old GPO building, now owned by H&M. Alongside it is a very narrow alley

which even though it’s had eateries added along its length, shows the scrapes of the old horse-drawn carriages along the side and the warnings about the devil motor car.

What has been done well is to keep the facades or exteriors of some of the more notable buildings, such as the old post office building above, and also to keep as much of the interior as makes sense.

Here’s another example.

A mall off to the side of The Block, a very handsome arcade,

features some great mosaic work

and is generally very photogenic.

It features the oldest tea rooms in Melbourne, called The Tea Room 1892. I wonder how old it is, really?

The Block is also home to L’Occitane, which has a wonderful hand-painted ceiling.

Another very handsome arcade is the Royal Arcade.

Isabel also showed us into the Manchester Unity Building, which has a sumptuous interior

and surroundings

including Melbourne’s first-ever escalator, originally installed in 1932 to much excitement and lining up for a ride.

We had a very engaging chocolate tasting in The Block, at a specialist boutique called Mörk (Swedish for “Dark” – the operation has a Swedish connection in its ownership)

which, apart from very delicious hot chocolate drinks, offers some unusual variations on chocolate flavours.

Blue cheese Caramelised Yuzu, apparently

As well as the handsome buildings, many of which could do with a bit of a tidy-up,

Isabel showed us some of the street art. We saw one or two larger installations

and there are many more of these around the city; but we didn’t have and won’t have time to explore these. What we saw was much smaller-scale and very much less formal.

Caught them at it!

It’s difficult to distinguish between what’s art and what’s graffiti, which is why I say it’s informal – we even saw a couple of guys adding their last touches to something or other. One of the best-known streets for art is Hosier Lane, which is either a riot of colour or a complete mess, depending on your point of view.

I’m sorry I couldn’t do more justice to Hosier Lane, but it was hurling down with rain at this point, making photographic essay work somewhat unrewarding.

A side note: we returned here later at night, having met a friend for cocktails, and walked through an after-dark Melbourne to get back to the apartment.  As we walked down Hosier Lane, we were passed by a van with a pressure washing trailer.  We chatted to the two guys operating it, and they had been given the job of removing some of the graffiti towards the bottom of the street. The plan was to paint it over with black, and their view was that it would last maybe a couple of hours before someone started daubing again.

STOP PRESS

The black area is still there. We discovered this on the way to meeting other friends for lunch. We found some more street art en route, and so the complete set of photos of it is on Flickr.

We also saw a couple of inexplicable installations on Russell Street

and some nice brass work in the paving outside city hall.

The after-dark walk enabled a different perspective on Melbourne.  Flinders Street Station’s impressive building

is quite something else when lit up.

Federation Square

and the view over the Yarra

also look very different after sunset, as does the Arts Centre.

Sadly, we’re not likely to get more time to explore Melbourne; I feel we haven’t been able to spend long enough here to get to grips with the place at all. But it has been interesting to see what we have seen, despite some very poor weather. Tomorrow we have an all-day outing, and the day after we have a lunch date with friends, and who knows what state we’ll be in after that. I will, of course, report back, and I hope you’ll visit these pages again to find out how everything unfolded.

 

Escape to from Kangaroo Island

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Saturday 31 August 2024 – Yesterday started off as a fairly standard sort of day for us on our travels, i.e. an alarm set somewhat earlier than we would normally like. But hey, we’re travelling – it’s part of the drudgery fun. The reason for the 0530 alarm was an 0905 flight to Kangaroo Island, where the plan was to spend a couple of days taking in the sights – maybe, I dunno, some kangaroos or something?

The first cracks in this plan became visible when Jane phoned up to confirm our itinerary for the island. When she eventually got through, the nice lady at the far end confirmed all the necessary details, which included our exit from the island, which was to be by ferry; but she added a slightly alarming comment about the possibility that the ferry might be cancelled because of the high winds that were forecast for the morrow. There was not much we could do about that, so we just got ourselves to the airport and on to the plane (a De Havilland turbo prop jobbie) and on to the island, via an aerial view over Glenelg, which we’d visited the day before.

The Kangaroo Island airport is a small affair, dealing daily, as it does, with a single inward flight in from Adelaide and an immediate outbound return flight on the same aeroplane. It took a little time to get our bags, even though it was not a large aeroplane, mainly because the KI process involved taking the outgoing bags out to the plane before they brought the incoming bags in. This slightly eccentric way of going about things was described to us by the chap who met us and was to be our guide for the day, a chap called Franck.

Franck was living proof of nominative determinism, in two respects: firstly, he is French, and those Frenchies used to be called Franks in the days of Charlemagne; secondly, his surname is Vigoroux, and he proved to be a very vigorous spirit, as well as being knowledgeable about the island, its history and its wildlife.

Our time on Kangaroo Island was billed as being “small group with private guide”, and it was sort of like that – there were six of us on Franck’s bus so the group was small in number, but two of the group were not at all small.

Without further ado, this being around 10am, we were off on the day’s tour, with Franck giving some details about the island which were almost accurate:

  • It’s much larger than I had imagined – Australia’s fourth-largest island according to Franck, or third-largest according to Wikipedia (behind Tasmania – as far south as you can go and still be in Australia – and Melville Island – pretty much as far north as you can go). Your call. Anyway, it’s about 150km from left to right and anything up to 50km top to bottom, so the driving distances are non-trivial. It’s just under 4,500 km², and has a population of about 4,900, so it’s not densely populated; about 140,000 tourists visit every year.
  • The aboriginal people who first settled here disappeared some time after it became detached from the mainland due to rising sea levels some 10,000 years ago. Since then, it was settled by sealers and whalers in the early 19th century and was then colonised by the Poms in 1836.
  • The island’s economy is mainly agricultural. It was originally pretty well covered in scrubby bush, but in the 20th century the government encouraged farming and land clearance, providing land and (very) basic accommodation for settlers as an incentive. Sheep and cows were introduced as well as grape vines, olives and Ligurian bees from Italy – the island has the world’s only pure-bred and disease-free population of this type of bee. The exporting of pure-bred queen bees is a notable industry here.
  • Kangaroos are endemic, but there are also wallabies and koalas here, introduced in the 1920s as a conservation initiative for these species.

We passed an example of an early government-provided farm accommodation

and an example of the chaining log that was used basically to drag across the scrubby bush to clear it.

The resulting landscape has many pastures fringed by bush outgrowth;

several of the open areas have animals – most commonly sheep – grazing on them,

and we saw quite a few pleasant vistas in various places across the island.

The first place that Franck took us to was Seal Bay, a conservation area on the south of the island. It’s not strictly accurately named, as the animals there are not seals, but Australian sealions. The visitor centre / retail outlet there has a useful skeleton on display

which clearly shows that the animals have back legs and forelimbs, which differentiate them from “proper” seals. As he drove us there he told us about the life cycle of these animals. The gestation period is 18 months, and females get pregnant again immediately after giving birth; they then look after the pup they gave birth to for 17 months before casting it out to look after itself, and give birth to the next and the cycle repeats; so the females are basically perpetually pregnant. Their main food sources – crabs, lobsters, octopus – are far out, 200km away, and far down, 100 metres or more; so they spend about three days at a time at sea feeding themselves before returning to land to rest for another three days.

The Seal Bay coast has got dunes over which the sealions spread themselves.

Franck cautioned us to ensure that we stayed together as a group and where possible maintained a 10m distance from any of the sealions which happened to be blundering about in the open or on the beach.

There weren’t many of them doing this today; mostly they were sprawled about near a segregated walkway, where we were free to roam and take photos.

There were some nice little vignettes: a mother and her pup;

a troublemaker

who (when not play fighting with others)

wanted to be fed by that mother and who was told to bugger off in no uncertain terms;

and a couple of bull males who were quite a lot larger than any of the other sealions there.

Up the path back to the visitor centre there were several convenient holes in the scrub that dotted the dunes,

which can serve as accommodation for the sealions in the cool nights and as they give birth and raise the pups.

We left Seal Bay and headed towards the middle of the island. After a while, Franck basically stopped driving, drew off the road into a clump of eucalyptus trees and said “there are probably some koalas around here.” He was right.

Frank clearly knew where the most likely spots were for finding koalas. During the rest of the day, we stopped four or five times so that we could get out and look at koalas (in some cases rather windswept – the day was indeed windy; also rather cool).

A couple of the koalas were mothers, cradling babies.

These koalas were often reasonably high up in the trees, but not always.

You can see one on the right-hand side of the picture above; this one was quite low down.

By this stage it was time for lunch. Franck had talked about barbecuing some fish, and I thought he was talking figuratively about a visit to some restaurant or other. But, no; he drove into a field (in order to disembark into which we had first to dip our shoes in disinfectant to ensure we didn’t bring anything in to the farmland on our footwear) and parked up beside a shelter complete with tables, benches and barbeque equipment, set up in woodland beside the fields.

Proving that his tale that he’d once worked as a chef was not idle talk, he then produced and cooked for us a very fine lunch indeed.

Our lunch actually had a very dramatic end,

as a large branch from one of the surrounding trees suddenly fell with an almighty crash on one end of our little gazebo

narrowly missing one of our group and trashing the barbecue at which Franck had been cooking only moments before.

No-one was hurt, but it quite dented the party atmosphere. Franck was philosophical about the whole thing, describing fixing it as his boss’s problem. He was, as I’ve implied, quite a character, full of life, energy and laughs. He’d had a chequered career, including time in the navy, rescuing stranded people from Lebanon, working as a fireman – terrifically important during the 2020 bushfires which consumed about half of the island – and running a hotel among his many roles. As well as lunch, which he’d packed into his bus, he was able to prepare fresh coffee for us later in the day;

his unique style and deep knowledge added a great deal of value to the overall tour.

For the rest of the day we basically just drove around to the places where Franck thought there might be things worth seeing. Kangaroos were, unsurprisingly, quite easy to find and photograph.

and, indeed, could be seen happily grazing among the farm animals around the island.

It was quite interesting watching the way they move around when grazing, using their tails as a third leg.

Kangaroos are plentiful and easy to spot – “just look for a rock with ears” was Franck’s tip – but wallabies are shyer and more difficult to spot. We did see a couple, though

and among the other birdlife, we saw some colourful Rosellas, which are a type of parrot. They don’t hang about, so I was only able to get this quick grab shot of one.

We were quite lucky with the weather. Although it was windy (see later), the rain largely held off. Largely, but not always.

In a way it was a shame we were still in the daylight; one of the sights we passed was “George’s Castle”, a project started by a chap called, erm, George when his missus got fed up with him being around the house when he retired.

At night, apparently, it’s lit by thousands of lights, and must be quite a sight!

It had been a great day – we’d seen a good cross section of the wildlife, including well over a dozen koalas, been entertained by Franck and escaped death by inches. But now it was time to head to our accommodation, the Stranraer Homestead. This features two restored cottages set on a historic working farm, which has some 6,000 sheep. It’s very quirky, but well enough organised. We shared a decent evening meal with a Japanese family who had been spending time on the island, and it was very interesting to compare politics and culture between the two nations; and we got a recommendation for a pilgrimage route we could walk when we visit Japan, which we hope will not be too far in the future.

That was yesterday. By the evening, the cracks in the original fly-out-and-ferry-back plan had widened to the extent that we decided to cut our losses on a second full day on the island and fly back to Adelaide on the single outbound flight on offer next morning. Astonishingly, given the strength of the wind forecast, there were seats available and so we booked them, which meant we immediately, of course, became keen to keep an eye on whether the ferry would be cancelled in order to justify our decision.

And so to today. As we walked over to the main house for breakfast, we were struck by what seemed to be an almost total absence of wind, which naturally made us wonder if we’d done the right thing. Not that it mattered; we’d made the decision and so were on track to get back to Adelaide in time for lunch, thus preserving the integrity of our planned itinerary for the coming days. The plane was due in around 0945, so we could expect to leave just after 1000 and be in a taxi back to the Sofitel at around 11am. The website of SeaLink, the ferry company, gave us to believe this was looking to be the correct decision.

As we sat in the airport, the cracks in our plan widened to become fissures; our incoming plane was more and more delayed, apparently by engineering issues (“they couldn’t find the radio operator”*) and eventually Qantas gave up and changed the plane, which took off about three hours late. By this stage, the trees outside the airport were being blown about in fairly dramatic fashion, and so we (and a few others in the terminal) whizzed up Flightradar to keep an eye on the incoming flight.

As you can see from the track, the pilots attempted a landing, but had to abort it, after which they tried a different angle which also didn’t work, then circled about for a while waiting for things to calm down to attempt another landing. Things didn’t calm down, so they fucked off back to Adelaide. At the same time, we got confirmation of the ferry status

So, there we were, stranded at Kingscote Airport on Kangaroo Island! The next official flight was tomorrow (Sunday) afternoon – too late for our onward travel to Melbourne; and it looked unlikely that we could escape by ferry for a few days, either.

Bugger.

For several minutes I actually had no idea what to do about all this. Should we be thinking about accommodation? Should we try to book on another flight? What about all the follow-on activities in Melbourne that might be affected?

Fortunately, Jane, ever The Organiser, got things moving. We made a couple of phone calls, and the local agencies who were looking after our time in Australia and on KI were very good in responding and being prepared to help out; and a lady called Janet came to give us a lift to a hotel room they’d arranged.

The Aussie Met Office had issued this severe weather warning for the area

but just as we were resigning ourselves to an indefinite stay on the island whilst the wind died down I got a message from Qantas saying they were planning to run the flight later on in the day, at 1850! We decided therefore to stay in the terminal – it would be about four hours until we knew our fate and that would save us from the complexity of trying to organise a ride to and from a local hotel.

Janet contacted the lady who had been running the coffee bar, which had been closed since about 1pm; Virginia

came back in, and, rather than just offer coffees and snacks, actually cooked a meal for those of us who had elected to stay in the terminal – pasta followed by cheese and crackers, beer and wine; an excellent job all round – and Qantas picked up the tab.

It was clear that everyone knew everyone else and so all the necessary arrangements could easily be made rather than having to go through elaborate and formal channels.

We settled down to the meal and to wait to see what happened. And Lo! it came to pass that there was an incoming flight at around 1800! And, wonder of wonders, it landed OK! So we checked in again, and walked through, past the non-operational security scanner, into the departure lounge and eventually on to the plane.

The take-off, it has to be said, was a little lumpy, but otherwise the flight was uneventful and had the same number of landings as take-offs, which is always encouraging. We then had a very weird walk to baggage reclaim – along a shabby external corridor and across a car park into the baggage reclaim area. Our bags appeared reasonably quickly and so we were able to get ourselves out to take a taxi back to the bosom of the Sofitel – where we have a room that is not quite as good as the one we had before. Annoyingly, the curtains have to be drawn manually, and there’s no bath. Shocking!

We’re very glad to be here, and grateful to all the various organisations that were involved in that: Qantas, who, I must say, were very organised (sending a stream of text messages and e-mails about delays and rescheduling, so we were always in the picture); ATS, who own our overall schedule; and Exceptional Kangaroo Island, who came to the airport to make sure that we were being looked after.

So we’re back on schedule, with a departure to Melbourne at midday tomorrow, and various activities, and catching up with friends, whilst we’re there. Do please keep in touch with these pages to see how the ongoing adventure unfolds.

* Yet another Flanders and Swann reference for you

Wandering around Adelaide

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Thursday 29 August 2024 – We’ve been in Adelaide now for two and a half days, having arrived off the Ghan on Tuesday morning. The train was a great experience, on several levels – relief at being able to cope in a small cabin, excellent sights and scenes on our excursions and great food and service from the crew, who all worked really hard to make sure that people enjoyed themselves as much as they could.

So, as we pulled into Adelaide at around midday, we said our farewells to various people that we’d met and talked to on the train, disembarked and linked up with our (very chatty) driver, Alan, as we waited for the suitcases to arrive.  When they did arrive, there was the usual feeding frenzy as people lunged for their bags,

but we got ours quite quickly, and Alan ferried us to our hotel,

where thankfully there was a room ready for us. And I have to say how much I enjoyed having lots of space once more; we had a substantial and very well-organised room on the 18th floor. It even had kettle and milk and so we were able to have a Nice Cup Of Tea as we pondered what to do with ourselves during our time in Adelaide; we actually had nothing formally organised and so had the rest of the day and two more full days at our disposal.

So we went for a lot of walks. Obviously.

Over the last two-and-a-half days, we’ve covered about 30km as we explored the city and the various aspects that interested us. I could bombard you with the photos we’ve taken, but that would make for an exceedingly long post, so I’ll summarise here and point you at albums on Flickr should you wish to see a greater range of photos. Basically, though, we’ve really enjoyed our time here – Adelaide is a lovely city to walk around.

One of the attractive things about it is the old, colonial-style architecture, with elaborate ironwork decorating many buildings. There are also many impressive edifices squeezed (rather like London) between more modern skyscrapers. Here’s a taster.

You can see a whole lot more of the photos in this Flickr Album, which covers the main part of the city.  North Adelaide features a couple of streets with several notable buildings in them, and we made this the special destination of one walk, which yielded several more photos of this traditional architecture.

We came across a lot of murals as we walked around.

More of these can be found here on Flickr.

One particular installation is worth picking out, though, something just behind our hotel.  It looked like just this wall above a mural

but closer examination showed that it had model vehicles of all types stuck to it

in their thousands!

Yet again – Why? Who?? How???

There were lots of other things to be enjoyed as we walked around – the Central Markets, some other street art installations, the interior of the Catholic Cathedral, the Botanic Gardens and more.

The laughing chap above is one of Australia’s greatest comedians, Roy Rene, later known as Mo, some of whose catchphrases entered Australian vernacular: “Don’t come the raw prawn with me” is one of the best known. The Australian entertainment industry’s annual award for excellence in live performance is named the “Mo Award” after him.

The Palm House in the Botanic Garden is a restored Victorian glasshouse imported from Bremen in Germany in 1875; it arrived prefabricated but almost all the glass was smashed in transit and so new glass had to be fitted in situ!

The Queen Victoria waterlily, a native of the Amazon, is the second largest of all waterlilies and has huge leaves – these in the Botanic Garden were easily 1 metre in diameter and it can grow much bigger.

We found some amusing uses of the language.

There’s lots more photos here on Flickr.

We had more amusement looking out for the name of Polites. I first saw this word writ large on the outside of a building near our hotel

and wondered what it meant.  It turns out to be the name of one Constantine Polites, a Greek man who grew up in poverty but worked his way up into being a major property tycoon in the city; every building he bought in the Central Business District (CBD) featured his name. Some still feature it and we had fun looking out for them – Toujours Le Polites!

Near the Botanic Gardens is the Botanic Park, and Jane had read that it might be possible to see flying foxes – fruit bats – there.  So we included this as we walked back from North Adelaide. And, indeed, you can see some fruit bats there.

Lots of them.

No really, lots.

Apparently this colony migrated from Eastern Australia as its food source dried up there and found its way into Botanic Park. There are between 20 and 40,000 of them to be seen! We spent a good few minutes watching them as they flew about

and I took some video of them as they squabbled among themselves about the best place to hang about.

The last thing we did was to catch the Adelaide tram down to the seaside suburb of Glenelg. (We nearly didn’t catch the tram because at the first stop we awaited one I’d failed to notice that there was no weekday service.) It was mentioned as being worth a visit, and so we walked around it, obviously; but we were out of season, and so it wasn’t really at its best. It has a smart town hall

but the beach is a bit weedy by the jetty (well, we think it’s seagrass, actually, which is a good thing if somewhat fragrant)

and is still a work in progress elsewhere.

It’s very clearly a seaside-y sort of place

which seems to be waiting for the season to get under way.  There are some cute touches

some posher bits, such as the Marina Pier,

and, clearly, a heavy investment in Norfolk Island Pine trees,

but it was pretty quiet. I can imagine it’s more lively once spring moves towards summer.

So that is Adelaide in a nutshell. We’ve really enjoyed walking around and taking it in, and it’s been really nice to be able to decompress in comfort after the cultural and touristic overload of the Kimberley and the Ghan.

Tomorrow we’re back on the Relentless Tourism Treadmill as we head to Kangaroo Island, and I’ll try to keep these pages updated as we dive back into the maelstrom of our great Australian Adventure.