Tag Archives: Portugal

Day 35 – Valença to O Porriño: Into the final 100km section

Thursday 1 October 2026 – We woke up to a thick fog over everything. Over breakfast, the light was changing constantly and afforded a couple of atmospheric views, even though we couldn’t actually see across the river into Spain.

The forecast was for the day’s weather to be lovely for walking – no chance of rain and temperature in the low 20s, but the fog would make it pretty chilly. We had 20km to cover to get to O Porriño, and our check-in time was 4pm, so actually we were in no rush, and so could bid goodbye to our Pousada, and to Portugal, after a fairly leisurely breakfast. Our hotel had been a great place to stay – large, comfortable room, great location – but it was sort of symbolic of a lot of what we saw in Portugal – beautifully designed, well built and poorly maintained. I wondered if we would see a dramatic difference when we were in Spain.

To get to Spain, we had to cross the river. The Fortaleza is high on a hill so the first thing we had was a steep downhill walk, and going through the fortifications via an ominous-looking tunnel.

We walked into the dark of this, turned a couple of corners and still had to keep going before we emerged from the fortifications.

It really is a most impressively fortified place. Having worked our way through, we carried on down until we reached the level of the bridge across the Minho, which is another Eiffel creation, though with the emphasis more on functionality rather than elegance of design.

We crossed the river into Spain

and took one last look back across at the Fortaleza.

There were plenty of Camino cues as we started walking through Tui,

but we Jane particularly wanted to go down further, to the river bank where once the ferry would have deposited pilgrims for their ongoing journey; effectively the historic start to the Spanish final section of the Caminho Português. It’s well marked now.

The waymarks are very familiar to us from our previous Caminos across Galicia,

and many of them give a figure for the remaining distance to Santiago

which are, actually, just approximations, despite the apparent precision expressed in the figures.

Carrying on, we passed a mural full of Tui and Camino references

which all the other pilgrims just walked by without registering. As we walked towards the Cathedral which we’d seen from across the water, we noted that we were passing the remnants of fortifications on this side of the river which mirrored what we’d just left in Portugal.

After a surprisingly short climb, we reached Tui Cathedral, which is an imposing mass of masonry,

with an enormously intricate portal.

To our surprise, it was open and we could walk around inside; we’d been expecting a 10.45 opening time.

It turned out that the 10.45 time was for buying tickets to see the cloisters and gardens. Whilst we waited, we looked around at the various imposing constructions in the Cathedral.

A huge altar screen in a side chapel

A simply massive Aisle Monument, which seemed to stretch from floor to ceiling

 

A similarly massive organ, which also seemed to reach up to the ceiling

Intricate carving in the choir stalls

A chapel dedicated to Santiago Matamoros – the slayer of Moors

In the end, the chap on the desk couldn’t get his PC to start, and Jane noticed that one could walk into the cloisters anyway, so we did

and I took a quick peek at the view into the gardens and over the river.

In the end, as matey on the desk still hadn’t got his machine going, we took our leave through the massive Cathedral doors

and got on our way.  The route takes one past the Convent of the Clarisas – the Poor Clares, an order of nuns founded by St. Clare of Assisi, who entered a lifetime of devotion and rejection of earthly possessions.

Jane had read that there was a window where one could get biscuits made by the nuns. It was inside a hall beside the main convent.

One rings a bell, and the window swivels

(it can’t open, as the nuns may not be seen) so that one can put in a sum of money. When it swivels around again, there is a box of biscuits for you.

(Note to my followers who pick up on these things: this is not a picture of food; it’s our reward for a pious donation, OK?)

Further progress past the convent is through the Nuns’ Tunnel

after which one emerges on to normal roads.

Walking along, Jane notice this.

It’s interesting in that its salutation is still in Portuguese; also the figure represented is Pelegrin, the official mascot of the Camino de Santiago created for the 1993 Holy Year, something we’d seen when we walked the Francés and which Jane had remembered (but I hadn’t to no-one’s particular surprise).

Before long the road gave way to a track

and this took us past a chap sitting at a desk and offering sellos and bananas.

I think he must have paid Google some money because “Banana and Stamp” appears on Google Maps. He is part of a small business raising money to create a donation-based pilgrim hostel in Tui.

Further along the track is the medieval bridge of Louro

which has a kind of negative space pilgrim beside it.

We had reached the 5km “minimum qualifying distance” by this stage, and a kiosk appeared handily on the trail

so we stopped for a swift coffee before carrying on. Shortly after that, we reached the Cross of San Telmo, beside a small bridge.

In 1246 (or possibly 1251), San Telmo was on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Upon reaching this bridge, he was suddenly struck by a severe, debilitating fever. Realizing he was too sick to finish the journey, he turned back towards Tui and died shortly thereafter.
Because of this, the bridge has been known ever since as the Bridge of Fevers.

The cross bears a solemn inscription for passing pilgrims, which translates as “Walker, here San Telmo became deathly ill. Ask him to speak to God on your behalf.” It’s kind of them to offer, but I’m still working out what message for him to pass on. San Telmo eventually became the patron saint of Tui, and his remains rest inside Tui Cathedral. Jane was intrigued as to whether San Telmo and St. Elmo were in some way related. Here’s what web searches tell us: The original Saint Elmo, traditional patron saint of sailors (giving his name to Saint Elmo’s fire) was Saint Erasmus of Formia, an early Christian bishop and martyr from the 4th century.
San Telmo was Peter Gonzáles, a 13th-century Spanish Dominican priest and missionary who became a patron of Spanish and Portuguese sailors and fishermen. Popular devotion eventually gave him the nickname “Telmo”, the distorted pronunciation of Saint Erasmus’s name, and the name San Telmo and Saint Elmo became interchangeable for both men and the places named after them.

The Ponte das Febres seems quite small.

It’s actually larger than it looks, being an entire semi-circular medieval construction  that has been submerged over the years by river water and silt.

Another couple of kilometres took us almost to the halfway point of the walk and a welcome and very enjoyable coffee stop at a place called Xarden. I had been wondering for the morning whether we’d be seeing crowds of pilgrims, and it was clear that many had gathered here.

We had our first piece of Santiago cake on this Camino; unsurprisingly, pastel de nata was not on offer any more, since we’re no longer in Portugal. It’s a pleasant garden, with an horreo (not an espigeuro, of course) surrounded by Belladonna Lilies

and some cute little sculptures, like this robin, throughout the garden.

The trail continues after Xarden, and leads past another entrepreneurial pop-up;

a lady who plays the bagpipes, and really rather well, too (if you like that kind of thing). She also offers a sello so Jane took one for a donativo and we walked on with, presumably Galician, folk dance music floating around us in the woodland as we went.

Her station was just by another old bridge, the Ponte Romana de Orbenlle.

Clicking on this on Google also tells you that this is the Ponte Medieval de Orbenlle. Apparently, it’s of medieval vintage, but sits on an old Roman road, hence the Romana name (and the current bridge may even have been built on old Roman foundations).

Soon after this, the track gives way to road, at a junction where there are some lovely murals on display. They are paintings by an artist called Xai Óscar, on the wall of his grandparents’ house.

The central one is a portrayal of the Gloria Portal of the Santiago Cathedral, the right-hand one a portrayal of St, James, and the left-hand one is simply called “The old pilgrim”. Again, we noted that the pilgrims that came past today marched on, paying no attention to this rather lovely art that was on display.

Bagpipe lady and a couple of other people had told us about a point in the Camino, shortly after these murals, where you have a choice of two tracks; the official one leads straight to O Porriño, and the other meanders around the countryside. The direct route (to the right) is shorter, but is basically through a series of industrial estates, so the recommendation is to take the complementario to the left,

so we did, and it’s a very pleasant alternative. It starts off as a woodland track, which leads over a polder bridge

and past another entrepreneurial lady, who offers fruit and juices to passing pilgrims for a donativo.

We had a couple of large slices of piel de sapo melon – very refreshing! Eventually the track turns to tarmac, a nice quiet road to walk along. We noticed that a lot of fences were made of slabs of stone,

and then we noticed a sodding great quarry in the distance,

and worked out (because we’re swift on the uptake) that the two things might be related. It turns out that one of the main industries of O Porriño is granite production; the variety of granite produced is known as Rosa Porriño (“Porriño Pink”), which is exported from the Port of Vigo mainly to Italy, Japan and China. Those bits that aren’t used for local fencing, that is.

After a few kilometres on the road, the track returns to woodland, running beside a river,

and taking walkers along a delightful trail, albeit one that is never far from heavy industry.

The trail debouches almost in the heart of the city,

and we had but a shortish walk to take us to our accommodation. The city seems a pleasant place.

It has a very impressive (granite) town hall,

a (granite) Town Name,

a big cockle shell (painted, so we can’t tell if it’s granite or not) to mark the Camino,

a very impressive (granite) rollo (pillory),

and an imposing (granite) parish church.

The church has some beautiful modern stained glass

and an intriguing statue.

It looks like St, James, doesn’t it? Pligrim attire, stick, gourd, the lot. Jane, however, was intrigued about the figure being portrayed holding up his robe to show an injured knee. Further research revealed that the statue is actually Saint Roch (San Roque), not Saint James (Santiago). The similarity in attire is because both saints are deeply tied to medieval travel. But the marking on San Roque’s leg is not a battle wound, but a bubonic plague sore (bubo). According to Catholic tradition, Saint Roch was a 14th-century French noble who gave up his wealth to care for plague victims in Italy until he contracted the disease himself. To show his patronage over plagues and contagious illnesses, his statues almost always depict him lifting his tunic to reveal the ulcerous sore on his thigh or knee. The clincher is the dog, apparently; St. James didn’t have one.

Our accommodation is an apartment in Apartamentos Tarela, which is very well stocked with essentials – and tomorrow’s breakfast – alongside (hurrah!) a washing machine because, y’know, these things are important. We did a bit of supplementary shopping to furnish ourselves with an evening meal but otherwise everything we needed was already here; and the owner even knocked on the door to make sure we were all set up, which was a delightful touch. It all made for a very satisfactory ending to what has been an excellent day.

Tomorrow’s destination is Redondela, about 16km away, but with some hills between us and it, which is not really something we’ve had to deal with up to now. Who knows, I might even have to get my poles out to help me up the steep bits….

Day 34 – Valença: Rest (and drone) day

Wednesday 30 September 2026 – It was rather nice not to have the imperative of getting up in time to hand our bags over for collection, so we took things fairly easy; also, the rain hadn’t cleared from the previous day. As we went to our leisurely breakfast, we could see people walking the walls of the Fortaleza dressed for inclement weather – and we couldn’t see much beyond that through the mist and rain!

However, it’s not in our Jane’s nature to be utterly lazy, so when the rain stopped we went out for a short walk, which is pretty much the only kind you’ll get if you stay within the Fortaleza. The most important thing was to get a selo from the Tourist Office. Unsurprisingly, the stamp has the Fortaleza as its motif; and the tourist office has on its wall an overview of the fortifications

which was very much an appetiser for me, as I wanted to see if I could get some decent aerial photos and/or footage with the drone. In going to the tourist office, we passed an elegant and beautiful church

dedicated to the elegant and beautifully-named Saint, erm, Stephen. It’s a Romanesque number which had been reconstructed in neoclassical style in 1792. Inside

there appeared to be a surprising number of Eucharistic Thrones – two to be precise.

We treated ourselves to coffee and pastries at the (rather crowded and claustrophobic) café in the main square. In fairness it was crowded because all the outside seating was soaking wet from the earlier rain…

The cafe had a rather nice set of azulejos at the far end.

Then we headed back through the crowded streets to our hotel. As well as being on the Caminho, the town is clearly and quite reasonably a popular tourist destination, and there were coach tours aplenty unloading punters while we were in the Tourist Office. We took the opportunity to get some more photos of the fortifications visible from the environs of the hotel.

Then, as Jane relaxed in our room, I headed out with the drone to see what I could capture. The Fortaleza is one kilometre from end to end, if you include the actual earthworks and fortifications; the maximum range I am allowed to send the drone out is 500m, so it should theoretically be possible to capture images all the way round if you stand somewhere reasonably central; and we’d identified a quiet spot on the walls near the middle of the Forteleza which looked promising. And so it proved; I came back with some stills and video and was reasonably happy with them. I spent an hour or so tinkering with them, during which time the weather improved somewhat, so I went out again and had another go. I took a few stills, but this is the one I like most.

If you have five minutes to spare, then you might like to watch the video that I was able to capture; it’s a 360° fly-round and I hope it gives a good impression of the imposing scale of the fortifications, as well as showing that the Fortaleza is really two fortifications, with the lower one protecting the higher one from a landside attack.

I really was delighted to have got the stills and video; it’s a wonderful location for this kind of video and makes it worthwhile having brought the drone with me.

Thus satisfied, we went to the hotel bar for a drink and a snack lunch and the improved weather gave us a good view over the river Minho and the border with Spain to Tui, through which we’ll be walking tomorrow.

Why they named the town after a travel company is anyone’s guess*, but the place has an awe-inspiring cathedral,

which I hope we’ll be able to visit as we walk through the town.

jane discovered that we’d missed something of pith and moment, a Roman milestone, which was just outside St. Stephens Church, so we went back out.

According to its infoboard it was adapted as a pillory after being transferred from its original location in 1860. The inscription reads “TI(berius) CLAUDIUS. CAESAR AUG(gustus) GERMANICUS / PONTIFEX. MAX(imus). IMP(erator) V / CO(n)S(ul) III, TRIB(unicia) POTEST(ate), / III, P(ater) P(atriae) BRACA(ra) / XLII”. Its original purpose was to mark 42 (Roman) miles from Braga to Tui and was built by Emperor Claudius when he made improvements to Via IV of the Antonine Itinerary.

We also visited the Bom Jesus Church, outside which is a statue of São Teotónio, who was the first Portuguese Saint and after whom our Pousada is named.

We returned to the hotel for the rest of the day, during which time the weather really brightened up,

which augurs well for resuming the walking thing tomorrow.

Because tomorrow is October 1st – new month, new country, new language, new time zone. We will cross into Spain (one hour ahead of Portugal) to complete our journey to Santiago de Compostela – seven more stages and 120km to go. Tui is the Caminho Português equivalent of Sarría on the Camino Francés – the 100km point, walking from which qualifies one for a Compostela. Three years ago, I found the crowds and and the babble on the walk from Sarría very difficult to adjust to; it will be interesting to see how these final kilometres of the Português are by comparison.

 

* Any fule kno there is no connection between the travel outfit owned by the German company Touristik Union International – TUI – and the Spanish town of the coincidentally identical name.

Day 33 – Vila Nova de Cerveira to Valença: another flat day

9Tuesday 29 September 2026 – Even before we went to bed last night, it was clear that the wind was getting stronger. As we went to breakfast, strong gusts were whistling through the trees and bushes in the garden at the Quinta. It wasn’t raining, though, so we decided to get out and get walking as soon as we could after finishing our breakfast; we were out on the Caminho before 9am. As – I’m prepared to bet money on this – you probably guessed, we decided we would take the riverside, less hilly, walk to our destination, Valença, which would be around 17km away. It was a grey, blustery day,

and we were keen to get to our destination before any rain came along. Our route to the riverside led us past some of the sights of the town: some more faces on murals;

inexplicable artwork;

(this reminds me of the old weather forecasting stone joke: “stone wet: raining; stone swinging: windy; stone gone: hurricane), as well as what is quite an attractive town centre.

There’s a handsome twin-spire church, the Mother Church of the town,

and, yes, it has a Eucharistic Throne.

We had been under something of a misapprehension about these thrones, thinking that they had been banned by the Papacy. In fact, they haven’t – just that the rules about what should be displayed on top and when have been tightened. Management apologises for misleading you on that. The church also had some lovely modern stained glass.

Outside the church was yet another reminder about what lies in front of us.

As we were walking, I noticed, on a hillside, an odd protrusion,

and wasn’t sure whether it was an illusion formed by trees, or actually some kind of installation. Closer view (thank you, Samsung 30x magnification)

showed that it was, indeed, an installation, a representation of a stag. This caused Jane to wonder whether there was a link between the name of the town – Cerveira – and the French for “stag”, which is “cerf”. And indeed there is. “Cerveira” is associated with the Portuguese word “cervo”, which may have referred to a large herd of deer in the area. There’s also a complicated local legend about a King Stag and his one-to-one duel with a nobleman during the reconquista. Thus there is a huge sculpture by José Rodrigues, called “O Cervo” on the nearby Monte Encarnação.

Image courtesy of visitportugal on Instagram

Once we’d seen that, the stag theme became ubiquitous

Our route didn’t give us a decent view of the 17th-century Castelo de Vila Nova de Cerveira (which I couldn’t fly a drone over, you’ll remember), but we did pass near another fortification just outside the town,

the Forte de São Francisco de Lovelhe. We couldn’t easily get any closer, so had to make do with this glimpse. Going past this fort led us back down to the ecopista that we’d been on yesterday, and so we yomped along that almost all the way to Valença. We thought we’d caught the authorities out in a logical impossibility with the signage

before we realised that the cyclist in on the signpost is wearing a motorbiking helmet. Still, it’s interesting that horse and cart were forbidden on the track. There wasn’t frankly, a lot of variety. We saw a bird-watching hide,

some gleaning going on in a harvested corn field by the track (there were a lot of these),

a stand of poplars and eucalyptus

and lots of acorns on the track.

It’s the acorn-falling time of year, I guess, and the blustery wind probably encouraged a few reluctant clingers-on to let go, as well. As we left Cerveira’s municipal area and entered Valença’s we passed a noticeboard which explained that EU money contributed a large amount to create the ecopista and its surroundings.

The Valença end of the ecopista was slightly less well-maintained

though to be fair, river bank erosion was clearly an issue in this area.

Eventually we came to the end of this section of the ecopista

and there was a section of boardwalk which repaid careful attention to footwork.

In the distance we could see Valença.

The path took us over the Ponte Medieval da Veiga de Mira

where we rejoined the formal Caminho track. The reeds beside this track demonstrated how blustery it was.

The Caminho track diverged from this ecopista-type surface

and we walked into the town past some bizarre votive offerings,

and encouragement

to the convergence point where the route we’ve been on, the Coastal, meets the Central. One would have expected some signage to mark this. One would be disappointed. This is all we found, by the roundabout where they meet.

However, there’s excitement on offer in the shape of the route through the “fortaleza”.

This is Valença’s USP – an entire and intact fortified city wall. The Fortaleza de Valença is one of Portugal’s great frontier fortifications, built and extensively strengthened in the 17th and 18th centuries to defend the northern frontier along the Minho river against Spain. It has a double enclosure surrounding the old town, with massive walls, bastions, gateways and deep defensive works. It remains remarkably intact and one of the things that I find really attractive is that it’s not in a restricted area for drone flying, so I might be able to get some lovely photos and/or videos of the place. My appetite has been whetted by the photo on that noticeboard.

The Caminho route into the Fortaleza is indicated by three stones

which are even older than Mick, Keef and Ronnie, but the paint job is from 2022, done by the Portuguese sculptor Dinis Ribeiro.

The Fortaleza is a really impressive piece of work.

and it leads through to the working town within,

with the inevitable tourist things to be seen,

as well as artworks such as this carnation – a symbol of the 1974 Portuguese “carnation revolution” which overthrew 48 years of the Estado Novo dictatorship and paved the way for modern democracy in Portugal.

The fortifications stretch across two fortified enclosures, so it was about a kilometre through this historic centre to our hotel, which is a Pousada,

the Pousada de São Teotónio. Many Pousadas across Portugal are in historic buildings; this one, though, dates from the 1960s. No matter, it is posh, the bar has both white port and gin, as we found out whilst waiting for our room to become available, and it is our home for the next couple of days as we have a rest day tomorrow! Yay!

Although our room wasn’t available when we arrived, other aspects of our timing were pretty good; The rain plainly decided not to stay in Spain, and headed over our way. It started raining soon after we arrived, and became torrential later on.

So we snuggled down for the rest of the day. Tomorrow, the forecast is much cheerier, so I suspect that the obvious thing for us to do is to go for a walk.