Author Archives: Steve Walker

About Steve Walker

Once a tech in-house PR type, now professional photo/videographer and recreational drone pilot. Violinist. Flautist. Occasional conductor. Oenophile.

Cry Freedom! And let’s slip into Reykjavik

Monday 28th June 2021, evening. We spent some three and a half hours acquainting ourselves with our hotel room whilst we anxiously awaited the outcome of our Covid tests.  In the distance, we could hear the tinkling of a piano.  Well, it as more a crashing than a tinkling.  I wondered if it was someone practising, Jane thought it was just rubbish. But it gave us something to get slightly distracted by whilst we waited……

At 8pm, the all-clear came in the rather prosaic and anti-climactic form of an SMS text saying “Screening could not detect COVID-19”.  No fanfare, no chorus of angels, just the beep of an incoming message.  But good news, nonetheless, as we were both getting a bit sharp set.

So we decided it was time to go out and explore our surroundings somewhat, not least because, against all odds, the sun was shining – not something we felt we had any right to expect.  We took an interim stop in the hotel bar, which was useful in several respects: firstly, getting to know Viking beer, a decent local lager; secondly getting a steer from the barman as to somewhere to eat (see later); and thirdly, to meet, briefly, Chris Foster, a friend of Jane’s from her folk-singing days. I would say “dim and distant” but if she reads that, she’ll slap me. The cost of spirits being what it is in parts Nordic, we’d brought a decent scotch and thus were able to present it to him.  We plan to meet him again when we return to Reykjavik en route home.

The Sand Hotel is set in Laugavegur, one of Reykjavik’s centralised, largely pedestrianised, streets, and very charming it is, too.  You can see at a stroke the quirky nature of this street, as well as the ubiquity of the electric scooters which make life as a pedestrian more tense than is strictly necessary.

As I took this photo, it became clear where the piano “music” was coming from. Up the street was a piano player who had extraordinary technique but could only muster appalling results.

We pottered in the direction that the barman said contained a good burger bar, noting the artworks adorning many of the street’s buildings

and spotting, in the distance, the hint of an impressive spire.

We eventually found the burger joint that our barman recommended

and it’s entirely in keeping with the quirky nature of the neighbourhood.  The burgers are OK, but the chips are stellar!  Walking back to the hotel, we detoured to explore the spire, and found it belonged to a quite remarkable building.

It’s called Hallgrímskirkja, locally referred to as the “Space Shuttle” and can be visited during the day; perhaps we will get a chance to look inside on our return to the city.

By this stage, it was getting a bit late and cool, so we wended our weary way back to the hotel and so to bed.  The day was a disconcerting mix of strange and familiar, and we felt the need of getting some sleep to help us be ready for whatever tomorrow might bring, and who knows what that might be?  Come back and find out!

So, How Was The Journey, Steve?

Monday 28th June 2021. Both my wife and I had read many newspaper articles concerning likely apprehension about doing things that were once considered normal – international travel, visiting places and, you know, talking to people and that. And, of course, we completely pooh-poohed them because clearly that was rubbish…until we actually had to do some of these things. It’s not that we’ve lost the knack of talking to people or anything; we still had mastery of the basics of social interaction, but yet there was a definite tingle of apprehension in the air as we waited for our taxi. It’s been nearly two years since we last undertook a journey of significantly more than 50 miles, far less taken a step onto foreign soil; and we’ve lost the familiarity with the process (book the taxi, don’t forget the passports, tell the neighbours, etc etc) which is somewhat disconcerting. Add to that the other stuff that the pandemic has thrust upon us – pack masks, register your trip, arrange tests upon return – and it’s all too easy to worry that Something Will Go Wrong and we’ll spend our fortnight in the Keflavik departure lounge.

Our domestic arrangements, also, were slightly more complicated than for previous trips, though, thankfully considerably cheaper. Cheaper because we no longer had to engage a live-in carer for Jane’s mother whilst we were away; and more complicated because now we had to worry about practical things like leaving an empty fridge, cancelling the milk and turning the heating down. All first world problems, I agree, but still items that added to the general sense of excitement, adventure and slight terror.

Anyway: taxi arranged – it might have been nearly two years since the last one, but our local taxi firm still recognised our phone number and so knew what address they had to get to, which I found quite impressive; flowers watered; people organised to look after the house whilst we’re away; bags into the taxi and off we went.

In the end, the journey from home to aircraft was completely routine with two exceptions. The first was the wearing of masks, which one accepts as a necessary evil; the second was a pleasant surprise, in that we weren’t expected to check in our own bags at an impersonal terminal. We had a good old-fashioned visit to an Icelandair desk where a nice lady took our bags from us and handed out boarding passes. She also, it has to be said, checked our vaccination and Icelandic pre-registration status, so it was clear they were paying attention.

Thence to security. Heathrow Terminal 2 was pretty quiet,

but The Powers That Be had still managed to arrange things so that the usual pinch points still featured a slow-moving queue. But all was well and we soon found ourselves, via a short detour to duty-free to buy some scotch for an old contact of Jane’s in Iceland, at the Caviar House and Prunier bar for our usual pre-flight indulgence.

That was a nice brush with the familiar, as was our subsequent trudge to the departure gate which, according to my fitness monitor, was half a mile and which as usual was at the very furthest reaches of the terminal building. It was worth travelling in the walking boots, after all, and not just to save suitcase space.

Mask-wearing aside, the rest of the journey was exactly as it used to be in the Good Old Days. One could take the masks off whilst consuming refreshments and beverages, so I bought an extra beer to prolong the pleasure of being mask-free. The Icelandair 757 was perfectly comfortable, and, furthermore, provided an opportunity to be emotionally prepared for Icelandic (spelt “scandalous”) prices; two beers, an apple juice and a couple of tapas snack packs set us back £28. But it’s a holiday, so it doesn’t matter. It also taught me that Google Pay on the phone works even in airline mode, which quite impressed me, actually.

The flight was otherwise uneventful, and we came into Keflavik airport just enough ahead of time that they weren’t quite ready with the jetway. On the way in, we caught our first sight of Iceland.

(Look, I know it’s an undistinguished photo, but I want to confirm that the sun was actually shining; I have low confidence that this will be the case for much of this holiday, so just wanted some blue sky for the record, OK?)

The transit through the airport was frighteningly efficient. We were able to produce the right paperwork to convince the authorities that we were probably not plague-ridden and then actually had to dash across the baggage hall to retrieve our bags from the carousel before they disappeared back into the bowels of the building. Our chauffeuse, Sandra, awaited us and we merely had to pop into the adjoining Covid test facility so that we could be swabbed before Sandra whisked us into Reykjavik. This was further than I thought it would be; over 50km. This was my first hint of the size of the island – it’s bigger than Ireland, which I was only just beginning to realise. En route, the terrifying efficiency of the Icelandic Covid response showed itself further in a text that said that I had to quarantine in the hotel room until I got a text telling me all was OK.

So here we are, in the Sand Hotel, in our quarantine cell.

It has the facility to boil water and we brought our own teabags (just as well!), so we could do worse as a place to possess our souls in patience pending the release back into society.

Assuming that we are indeed not infected with the lurgy, our dumb luck continues – Iceland has just announced the removal of all Covid restrictions, so we will be able to enjoy the rest of the holiday without the cursed facemasks! Stay tuned to see how it unfolds….

Crowning Moment

Wednesday 23rd June 2021.  My favourite saying is “Chance favours the prepared mind”, but that hardly covers the dumb luck that means that, all other things being equal, my wife and I will be travelling to Iceland next Monday, 28th June, there to spend a fortnight travelling around with a dedicated guide to show us the sights and help me with my photography.

It may seem that we’ve simply and possibly even cynically taken advantage of travelling to virtually the only country [Jeremy Clarkson voice ON] in the WORLD [Jeremy Clarkson voice OFF] which will (a) accept us without putting us into quarantine and (b) allow us to return without quarantine or self-isolation.*

For us to travel so soon after the international travel gates were opened looks like we were sitting poised at our terminals to book the first possible international holiday. Let me correct this misapprehension.  We originally planned to go in June 2020, and contacted Iceland Personal Tours as far back as November 2019. There were no 2020 dates available  to suit us, so we simply said, “OK, we’ll go in 2021”.  It is a matter of staggeringly good fortune that the dates, travel restrictions and vaccination programmes came together such that we will almost have to duck our heads under the lifting gates as we depart. (I just hope nothing goes wrong between now and next Monday!)

So, after nearly two years of not travelling, we have a whole raft of new and exciting things we need to do:

  • Register with the Iceandic authorities
  • Organise tests and fill in passenger locator forms for our return
  • Get vaccinated and prove that this has happened (fortunately, we’re old enough, and the UK NHS is well-organised enough, that this was arranged automatically).

As well, we also have to try to remember all the things that were once second nature but which have now become strange and new:

  • Finding passports
  • Arranging taxis
  • Worrying about Heathrow Airport departure procedures (e.g. is the Champagne Bar going to be open?)
  • Running the food supplies in the house down
  • Arranging people to come in and check the house over whilst we’re away
  • Working out what clothes are appropriate
  • (For me) Agonising about the selection of camera gear
  • Organising foreign currency

And this last was the point at which the reality of what we’re proposing really struck home – i.e. it actually cost money; the rest has been just an intellectual exercise.  And today, courtesy of the good offices of Royal Mail and Currency Online Group, we received four Icelandic £30 notes, like this:

(The local currency is the Crown, hence the title of the page.)

We may not need them – Iceland is spectacularly online – but I feel exposed not having something to hand to offer as bribes if need be.

So – the adventure is perilously close to being real!  We’re both unreasonably excited about the novelty of travelling again and the possibilities of being able to see the wonderful range of sights that Iceland will have to offer, if we can see them through the mist and rain.  Please stay tuned to this blog and I will update it with our experiences and images when I can.

 

 

* Any readers of this blog in the far-distant future (hah!) will need to know, for historic context, that the planet has been “ravaged” by a respiratory virus (SARS-Covid-2) pandemic and has been in lockdown for effectively 15 months with international travel for such trivial purposes as gawping at scenery largely forbidden.  UK Lockdown started March 23, 2020, and (with a tiny intermission) international travel was only permitted starting on 17th May 2021.