Author Archives: Steve Walker

About Steve Walker

Once a tech in-house PR type, now professional photo/videographer and recreational drone pilot. Violinist. Flautist. Occasional conductor. Oenophile.

Initial wanderings in Lisbon

Saturday 22 August 2026 – An 0830 taxi to the airport should be fine, shouldn’t it? This should enable us to get up at a reasonable hour after a good night’s sleep, have a bite of breakfast, maybe a coffee and get ourselves ready to leave via a symphony of organised activities just as the taxi draws up outside.

As if!

We ended up getting to sleep far too late, getting up a bit too early and still having about half an hour’s wait for the taxi. Time, of course, drags during that half hour and allows the double angst of worrying that the taxi won’t arrive whilst frantically wondering if there’s anything we’ve forgotten. Apart from that, the morning went well.

The taxi did turn up, of course, and we had a pretty much uneventful transit through Heathrow Terminal 2, on to a TAP flight and on to Lisbon. There were the usual trials – no leg room, some children who were very noisy at times (though, to be fair, quiet on the flight), and a source of particular aggravation for me in the shape of a teenager sitting next to me who insisted on watching a film on his phone with the volume up. I’d hoped the noise of the engines might drown it out, but just enough tinny sound made it through to make it rather annoying without being so egregious that I felt able to do more than give him One Of My Looks, which he never even noticed, far less ignored.

I had been concerned about queues on arrival at Lisbon because of the new EU Entry Exit System, but actually my fears were entirely unfounded. There were loads of the new kiosks available and working, so getting the photo and fingerprint business done was very swift. What surprised me a little was that we still had to go through the e-gates after we’d done that, but all was well, and our bags were numbers 32 and 34 off the aeroplane when they turned up at the carousel.

Our driver was waiting for us and whisked us in to downtown Lisbon, where we’re staying at the Turim Hotel. We had a bit of an awkward time at check-in as the hotel were expecting us to pay for the room whereas we’d expected it to be prepaid. Jane contacted Caroline at Walk The Camino, but the only resolution was for us to stump up the funds on the assumption that some kind of resolution will enable us to get the money back at some stage. Apart from that, the hotel room seems perfectly OK, if a bit cramped and gloomy. We’re not expecting to spend a lot of time in it anyway.

The room did feature a kettle (hurrah!) but only plastic milk in little pots (boo!); a trip to the bar got us some proper milk so we could refresh ourselves with Twinings finest Earl Grey. Having done that, we went for a walk. Obviously.

The hotel’s location is excellent – close to the cathedral and the main square and a 15-minute walk from the Castle – a great base for exploring, We have a guided walking tour booked for the morrow, but thought it would be interesting to wander up (and, this being Lisbon, up is an operative word here) to the cathedral and remind ourselves about it. I can remember seeing the outside on previous visits, but can’t actually remember if we went in. Anyway, the walk there showed us a few of Lisbon’s characteristics: some very attractive tiling;

some other appealing decorative touches to some buildings;

some amazing façades;

and a very funky selection of taxis and tour operators.

The cathedral is very difficult to photograph; one ends up quite considerably downhill when trying to capture the front, standing on a tramway with trams and other traffic bearing down at speed,

but I captured the above without serious injury and we went inside. Doing this provided further evidence that we’d not been inside before, as one of the options on offer on entering (and paying for your ticket) is to go up to the museum, and I’m sure we’d never done that. So, up we went, and got a great view of the main interior of the church.

Behind us at this point was the enormous stained glass window, which we got a good close view of. I took another picture from further away, down in the body of the church, to give better perspective

but this doesn’t do justice to the close encounter we got at the closer quarters. The museum has got all sorts of religious bits and pieces, but the most impressive area is the Treasury, a room that is very lavishly appointed. I couldn’t get a photo angle that captured the room, but it has a beautiful ceiling

and some very fine tiling and artwork.

As you can see from the photo of the interior, the church has a long and relatively narrow nave, with many chapels off to the side. The sum total makes for a very large and imposing building and some of the chapels are lovely. There’s one with a very arresting display in it.

It’s a very elaborate nativity scene,

rendered in astonishing detail.

There’s also a baptistry that features some wonderful tiling work.

Having visited the cathedral, we walked the short distance back towards the hotel, which took us past numerous restaurants, so we stopped in at one, Taberna Moderna, which looked appealing.  The food was very good, but the drinks selection was a bit bizarre. We ended up having a cherry-flavoured caipirinha, as they had no gin or tonic. It was tasty, but bizarre. There was too much food, so we had a short walk after dinner to settle it down a bit, and strolled along to Rua Augusta, which was labelled a “notable” street. It’s the one which leads up from the well-known arch at at the top of the main square, Praça do Comércio.

It being Saturday night, it was all full of people, so we didn’t hang about but headed back to the hotel. We did pass an exceedingly niche shop there, though.

Every shelf is crammed full – appropriately with tins of sardines in all manner of different sauces and guises. A remarkable place.

Back at the hotel, Jane relaxed while I started the process of discovering a photo workflow based around the tablet rather than the laptop I customarily have with me, It’s going to take some refining, but it would appear to be reasonably effective. Proper editing of the photos will have to wait until we get home and I can get back to my beloved DxO Photolab, but I hope I’ll be able to work work with what I brought with me.

Tomorrow, Carlos, our guide, will spend some time showing us around Lisbon and we hope to see perhaps some of the less well-celebrated aspects of the city. Come back tomorrow to see what it is we saw.

 

Preparations

Friday 21 August 2026 – It’s been over a year since Jane and I undertook a long walk, and so we have to reacquire some of the key habits concomitant with basically seven weeks on the move, staying at a new place (mostly) every night. We’re not hard core enough to carry everything, so our bags will be transferred daily. The organisation which will, erm, organise this is, as with all our Camino activities, Walk The Camino, who we hope will do the same splendid job for us as they have done before.

The emphasis will therefore be on travelling (fairly) light (the heavier stuff can go in the baggage to be transferred). Of course, therefore, I have been undergoing the usual pre-trip mild angst around what photo gear to take. On our previous Caminos I used my phone as the principal camera and took a drone in case a decent aerial shot was possible. Much as I would like to take the Nikon with me for capturing the delights of Lisbon, Sintra, Porto and Coimbra, I don’t think that I’m prepared to take the extra weight, since taking the Nikon implies also taking a laptop for photo processing which I feel I would have to include in my day pack. After much mental to and fro, I’ve decided that I will tolerate having to lug the drone with me; this won’t be every day, since there are quite large swathes of the route where drone flying is restricted.

So, for the donkey work of routine photography I’ll take my little Sony and also a new acquisition in case there’s video footage to be captured – a DJI Osmo Pocket 4P. On paper, this is a very impressive piece of technology – a (relatively) large 1″ sensor, and two lenses which offer a very decent zoom range, the lack of which was my main complaint with its predecessor. It should be easy to get professional-quality stabilised video footage, but let’s see if my usual ham-fistedness gets in the way of achieving that, shall we?

Since I won’t have the laptop with me, I’ll update these pages via a tablet, which will also be the backup device, saving me having to carry a backup disk drive with me. A fair bit of photo gear as usual, then, as well as power banks, cables, adapters and card readers. Just so you know how much I suffer in creating these pages, you understand.

Light though we wish to travel, there is one thing that is non-negotiable.

I realise that Portugal is sufficiently civilised and Anglophile that Twinings finest Earl Grey might be available in the shops; but d’you really believe we’re prepared to take that risk?

We will come across a major (for us) unknown on our journey, which is the change to the previously straightforward process of getting into a European country, which, since April this year, has in theory been governed by the new Entry Exit System.  The only experience we’ve had was the debacle of arrival at Pisa airport where the Italian authorities, in an excess of common sense, decided to abandon attempts to use the EES terminals in the face of the vast queue winding out of the airport building and onto the tarmac. EES is one of the passive-aggressive ways the EU has introduced to punish the UK for Brexit and it has the potential to give rise to major queues for non-EU travellers. The situation is sufficiently marked that there is even a website about the queues, which appears to crowdsource information about wait times.

Portugal is one of the two EU countries which has embraced EES (the other being Sweden) and it has put in place support for travellers to use the official app to register their visit. Since we have been good citizens and passed over our details, we might thus expect the queuing at arrival to be lessened. It’s disappointing, therefore, to read that Lisbon airport is one of the worst for queues for non-EU arrivals.

To be fair to Lisbon, the site appears to say that the arrival queue at time of writing (24 hours before we travel) is 20 minutes.

We’re not starting out on our Caminho immediately – we have a couple of days in Lisbon followed by a couple of days in Sintra (a place I’ve never visited before) to play tourist before we start playing pilgrim. Once we’re under way, though, I suspect the schedule of the days will fall into a familiar pattern: start walking as early as is reasonable and consistent with having some form of breakfast; late lunch shortly after arrival at the day’s destination; exploration of it after lunch; then writing the day up (me) and preparing for the morrow (Jane).  There will doubtless be Things To See as we go, and Jane does a great job of picking out the best ones so that we actually visit some places of interest rather than just peregrinating grimly past them. As well as Google, we have extra resources,

and so we’re expecting a good variety of places to visit and possibly get a selo – a stamp for our pilgrim passports – as we pass (we want to make sure we qualify for a Compostela for this Caminho to match the ones we have from the Francés and Finisterre Caminos).

Once we set out, in the main we’ll be staying one night at each destination. We’re not rushing, but will cover the 630km in 37 stages – average 17km per day. We will spend extra days in other places en route, notably Porto, as well as a couple of interim place where we get to do the laundry – these things are important, you know. I’m hoping there will be a good crop of photos and a selection of points of interest as we go, We head for Lisbon tomorrow – stay tuned if you’d like to follow the journey!

 

Eclipses, Ratholes and Frustrations

Thursday 13 August 2026 – Yesterday saw the most significant solar eclipse visible in the UK since 1999. Between then and now there have been a few partial eclipses, but either the weather has got in the way of being able to see anything or its pith and moment in Surrey was negligible.

1999 was the first time I made any kind of effort to view an eclipse.  I didn’t have a digital camera at that stage, and the film camera I did have wouldn’t have made any sense of what was going on, so we viewed it, along with our neighbours and a glass of something cold, via some kind of pinhole-projection setup.

I can’t remember the exact setup, but this was the sort of image we got.

This gave me something of an incentive to Do Better Next Time, although many years elapsed before I was able to have another go. During that time I made the shift to digital photography (Digital Ixus in 2000) and then to Serious Digital Photography (Nikon D70 in 2005 – I even done a course, innit!) and this passage of the years saw, of course, the first photography rathole that I disappeared down. Many photographers are closely acquainted with GAS – Gear Acquisition Syndrome – and I am of their number. I made my way up the Nikon DSLR ladder, acquiring ever more sophisticated bodies and lenses, with purchases supported somewhat by doing paid photo work. I even bought a specialist eclipse filter, from Thousand Oaks Optical, for a Big Lens I’d decided I needed in order to do another project – wildlife photography. But significant eclipses, UK locations and decent weather stubbornly failed to coincide.

Until last year, actually. March 2025 saw a 40% eclipse in the south of England and the weather was decent. At last! An opportunity!

Annoyingly, the filter I’d bought those years ago was made to fit a Big Lens I no longer had, having moved from DSLR to mirrorless with a concomitant change of lenses. But, as a colleague of mine used to say, nil desperandum: I also had a sheet of Thousand Oaks’s black polymer film, so jerryrigged something or other with a square cut out of the film and pointed my new Big Lens at the sun. This was the result.

It’s satisfactory in its way – correctly exposed and in focus – but, frankly, is creatively a bit lacking. It’s just this photo of a not very interesting eclipse, you know? So when I read that there was to be a significant eclipse in 2026, I sought out an eclipse filter properly sized to fit my current Big Lens (Nikon Z 100-400) so I had it ready for August 12 – a 90% eclipse towards sunset over the south of England, with (hooray!) the prospect of a clear sky.

In the run up to this, I fell down another rathole, which was the result of considering how to make something more of what promised to be a spectacular event. After all, I’d proved that I could get an in-focus photo of the sun, so how could I leaven the experience with a bit of creativity? There were, as far as I could work out, no easily-accessible locations where I could factor the eclipse into a landscape or a cityscape to make it spectacular, like this, for example.

Credit: Luke Miller

All I have near me is the leafy Surrey countryside, somewhat devoid of points of interest. Since the maximum point of the eclipse was due to be near sunset, I also needed to be on a hill somewhere, and the only one I could think of was Oystershell Hill, on Chobham Common – a short drive and a 10-minute walk away. I’d used it before for a lunar eclipse series so was fairly confident I could get some kind of a result from there. I’d also seen some time-series photos of eclipses and so I thought I’d have a go at one of them, as well as getting a decent photo of the eclipse at its max.

Here, then, was the next rathole – how to achieve the time series? I wondered about using a multiple exposure setup on the Nikon; set it up, point it in the general direction of the sunset and take several exposures into a single image. If I did that, though, I lost my best chance of getting a top quality image of the eclipse at maximum. I have a very good camera in my phone: could I that in some way?  Was it even possible to use it to get  a decent image of the sun without it being over-exposed? Could I use it to do a hyperlapse? The answer in both cases is no; particularly in the second case, I would end up frying the sensor in the phone, which would be stupid.

In the end, I decided that I could probably use my little Sony RX100 vii, but I would need to jerryrig a filter. So I dug out my ThousandOaks film and discovered there the segment I’d cut out as part of the 2005 jerryrig.   I used it to create something I could position over the lens.

To hold it in place, I decided to use a Wimberley Plamp, a photo accessory I’d purchased some years before for….erm, well, I can’t really remember why I bought it, apart from that it looked like it could come in handy. I hoped it would do the job and I’d get to actually use it, rather than have it simply hanging around in my accessory cupboard.

Previous experience, and the several failed experiments that have bedevilled my time as a photographer, told me that I should have a practice, just to make sure that I had the right stuff with me when the time came and hadn’t forgotten anything. So, 24 hours before, I duly drove over to Chobham Common and trudged up to the top of Oystershell Hill, carrying three tripods and a backpack containing two cameras, lenses, filters, water and snacks. I discovered that I’d rather misjudged the terrain.  I remember there being a flat spot at the top of the hill where I envisaged setting up. Trouble was, I found, it wasn’t suitable for a view of the sun, what with trees being in the way and that.  There was a westerly viewpoint, but it was among long grass off to the side of the path – long grass and, it became clear, junior gorse bushes, against which my shorts-and-sandals attire were woefully defenceless.

Cursing rather less than gently, I set up two of my tripods, and put the Sony on one of them behind the filter. And then discovered a plan-reality disconnect.  I had envisaged setting the Sony up to take multiple pictures as the sun crossed its field of view, with the horizon just at the bottom of each frame.  It was actually exceedingly difficult to put this into practice. I had simultaneously to work out an exposure for the sun through the filter, an exposure for the treeline that formed the horizon and the correct focus distance so that both sun and horizon would be sharp. This had to be done without being able to see the screen of the camera, because the image on it wasn’t bright enough and it was reflecting my shirt. Fortunately, the Sony has an electronic viewfinder so all was not entirely lost, but trying to work out whether the sun was actually in the picture at all was the main challenge. My original plan had been to run a practice sequence of photos, but I abandoned this impossibly idealistic goal, realising that luck and guesswork, as well as long trousers and stout shoes, were going to be the order of the morrow. So I didn’t learn much from my practice session, although I did establish that taking photos with the Nikon handheld was over-ambitious. I had expected it to be a rather dull practice session, with not much to do after my original setting up. In reality it was anything but – frustrating, sweaty and ultimately of limited value.

And so Wednesday 12 August dawned and, come 1730, I started the drive to Chobham common. En route, it occurred to me that there might be another suitable location, on Staple Hill, a different part of Chobham Common – but one with a more convenient car park and possibly a more pleasant (i.e. les gorse-ridden) area in which to set up. So I turned off to get there, and entering the car park, saw that lots of other people had had the same idea. The car park was rammed – I got the last space – and people were beginning to park on the road in the area. It was quite the gathering, with many people clearly having prepared quite comprehensively.

There were a few tripods already set up, and some people were clearly taking things even more seriously than I was.

There was a smattering of eclipse specs and cereal-box pinhole cameras to go with the tripods and serious setups – everyone had come prepared in their own way.

I got myself set up as best I could, but it really was difficult to understand what focal length to set the Sony at – if it were short enough to capture the sun as it entered the eclipse, I couldn’t see whether it would appear so tiny that one couldn’t make out the disk of the moon in front of it. Even with half an hour to set up, I was still dithering about this as the disc of the moon made first contact (as shown on this Nikon image)

so I did some final guesswork for focal length, direction, focus distance and exposure, prayed, and set the Sony going, taking a photo every minute.

The next couple of hours unfolded gently, from 1820 to 2010, with the Sony taking photos automatically, and me taking occasional photos manually with the Nikon. Maximum eclipse was at 1913

but it hadn’t gone very dark;

we couldn’t tell whether the birds had fallen quiet, as we were just by the M3 and traffic was speeding by in complete ignorance of the unfolding spectacle. A contact posted on Instagram that the parrots in the park he was visiting went quiet, but soon started up again as the moon cleared the sun.

People started drifting away soon after the maximum had been reached, but I stayed on for another hour. I was among the last to leave, having recorded photos of the sun as it headed towards the horizon. Eventually I packed up and headed home.

That was when the hard work started, really, because I arrived home with 160 photos and only the vaguest idea of (a) whether they were any good and (b) what to do with them. Completing the processing of them and transforming them into what the Instagram Generation would call “content” took the next 24 hours.

Because the Nikon picture of the eclipse at maximum was, well, not boring, exactly, but certainly had nothing remarkable about it that thousands of others hadn’t already captured, I decided the first thing was to get a time series sorted out. My first target being social media, I needed to do it quickly, so I took a quick look at my available content from the Sony.

I had taken photos every minute, and I elected to check out very fourth photo to see how the sun had moved. The first two pictures I had through the filter with the sun in it were these.

which show the movement, but of course the strength of the filter means that everything else in the scene is blacked out. For a backdrop, I’d taken a photo of the general scene without the filter.

The scenery is too dark and the sky too bright, but this is the sort of thing that can relatively easily be fixed, using my favourite RAW editor, DxO Photolab.

 

So: I had 20 images of the sun on a black background and a general scene to place them in.  For this, I had to use a different editor; my general image editor of choice, for historical reasons, going back decades, is Corel Paintshop Pro.  To create an image I “simply” had to load the backdrop image and the 20 sun images and then layer the suns over the backdrop – another rathole to spend some time in. So I ground my way through a repetitive process of adding image layers, and this was the final result – cropped in a bit to avoid a couple of defects in the backdrop.

Despite its defects, I have to say I was pretty pleased with it, bearing in mind the amount of guesswork that went into it. For social media purposes, I thought it should make pretty much the impact I was after, so I posted it, and it seemed to get a pretty good response from those that its algorithms bothered to showed it to.

The Nikon photos were all lovely and sharp, but individually didn’t tell much of a story. I wondered whether it might be possible to make a video from them, simply centring each frame on the sun and fading between them.

It’s one way of looking at it, I guess, but not all that inspiring. I wondered if I could animate the time series somehow, which led me to revisit a previous rathole. Looking at the individual Sony images revealed some red fringes around each of the suns. So I had to re-edit all the pictures to remove those, and also spent quite a lot of time trying to to improve the backdrop by making the top a little darker.  But I emerged from the rathole with this.

There are notable defects in al of this content, but all in all I’m not dissatisfied with it as a day’s work.  It’ll certainly stand me in good stead for the next one in the UK, which is in….oh, wait….2090.

Bugger.

Never mind. Maybe I can find another eclipse somewhere else. Watch this space.