Tuesday 10 September 2024 – When we looked out of the window this morning, it had clearly rained hard during the night, but it was difficult to tell if it was drizzling right now or whether the weather was just that air-borne moisture you get when you’re in a cloud. Anyway, it wasn’t bucketing down as we walked round the lodge’s lake to breakfast, and there was possibly even the hint of a lift in the weather.
On the basis of various weather forecasts, we decided that rather than wrap ourselves up in something warm and stay indoors, we should go for a walk. Not obviously, by any means, though. Just down the road from our hotel is the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre,
where we went to get our Parks Pass and also a ticket for the shuttle bus which would take us to one of the well-known walks in the area, a circuit round Dove Lake. The total cost was not small, but, as with the Russell Falls park, it was clear as we walked around that there was a lot of work involved in maintaining paths and other facilities, so it was money well spent.
The terrain we could see from the bus
underlined how wet the place was. Basically, we have been wet and cold since we left Hobart, and we asked the hotel receptionist if this was normal. She said, emphatically, that it was not; in the 12 seasons she’d worked in Cradle Mountain, this was the first time they’d had such consistent rain for such a long time – every day for two weeks.
The shuttle bus has a few stops en route to Dove Lake, the first of which was at the Ranger Station;
they were clearly expecting me and wanted to make sure that I stayed safe.
At Dove Lake, the prospects for spectacular scenery were a little less than uplifting
but since we’d made the effort (and paid the bus fare!) to get there and it was only drizzling, we grimly struck out on the 6km Dove Lake circuit. This is largely a well-maintained path
with steps to help with ascents and descents
and boardwalk to get you across the tricky bits. Every so often, the drizzle would stop for a few minutes, and one could begin to make out the reason that the area is called Cradle Mountain,
and the general scenery, whilst being exceedingly moist, was not unattractive.
As we worked our way along the path, the weather lifted a little more, the cradle became clearer to see,
and we could see that there was snow on the upper slopes of the mountains on the other side of the lake.
Every so often there was something to remark on, whether it be multiple Pandanus trees
or some extra highlights among the greens of the trees.
We reached the far end of the lake
and continued on the path, through an area called the “Ballroom Forest”.
It’s clearly a forest, and probably rainforest at that, but we couldn’t fathom the reason for its other name.
We noticed at this point that the top of the cradle was beginning to clear, and one could actually make out snow on the slopes.
The unrelenting treeness of the view gave way to rock at one point
though in the event it meant that one had to duck as one went past – there was a distinct lack of headroom.
We carried on, along paths that were easy to follow but more difficult to walk on – there were more uneven surfaces, and the unremitting rain of the previous days meant that there was, more often than not, a river running along the middle of the path, requiring fancy footwork for those, like me, who were not wearing boots and didn’t want wet feet.
The return half features quite a steep climb
at the top of which a pied currawong came to ask us why we were breathing so hard.
At about this time, the weather really did lift and we could see the cradle quite clearly as we looked back,
but the lump we’d just climbed over was getting in the way, and we wondered if we’d miss out on a clear view of the mountains before we finished the walk. The clouds did swirl back in as we passed a boathouse
but eventually, our luck was in as we reached the point on the circuit where the Iconic Cradle Mountain Shot could be captured.
There are even instructions on a noticeboard as to how to post your attempt at the shot on social media. That’s how iconic the location is.
In the end, it was an enjoyable walk, as it ended with the sun almost shining, and there being no rain, so we were glad we had made the effort to get out. As we drove back to the hotel and I concentrated on avoiding the craters in the road, Jane suddenly yelled “wombat!”. At first, I thought this was a critique of my driving, but actually it was because there was, indeed, a wombat beside the road, so we screeched to a halt so we could take a closer look. This was my first-ever wombat,
much more interesting than the wallaby which was quietly lying a little further away wondering what all the fuss was about.
Not only did I see my first wombat in this area, but also my first-ever pademelon!
so we were very happy as we got back to the hotel. We had a short rest before we had to go out again, on the day’s booked excursion to a place even closer than the Visitor Centre. As we drove there, we passed a couple of cars off to the side of the road, a sure sign that there was Something To See. In this case, there were a couple more wombats, just grazing away beside the road. I got some video of one of them,
and we carried on to our activity, which was at a place called Devils@Cradle. I guess its name gives away what we’d find there:
Tasmanian Devils, an endangered species of marsupial found only on this island. We had booked to see them being fed, which happens late in the day, as they are basically crepuscular creatures, but we turned up early so that we could take a look around and see what other creatures were being looked after there. These included Quolls, of two different sorts: Eastern Quoll
(also seen here in a dark morph)
and Spotted Tail Quoll.
These, like the Devils are (a) marsupials, (b) endangered and (c) nowhere near as cute as they look. All three creatures are ravenous meat eaters and not to be treated lightly; as far as they’re concerned, humans are just meat, and so trying to pet them is likely to end in tears, as in fingers being torn off hands. Each animal has hugely strong jaws – ounce for ounce stronger even than hyenas – and their jaws can gape extraordinarily wide, which helps them as they tear and rend. This one, though, was just yawning.
The Devils@Cradle centre, whilst undeniably a tourist attraction, is actually a serious scientific endeavour as part of conservation efforts concerning these creatures. The Tasmanian Devils, particularly, are at risk, mainly because of human activity, killing them often out of fear (they can make a blood-curdling screeching sound if they’re in disagreement among themselves) or because they can be a threat to domestic animals. A result of this depleted population is a lack of genetic diversity, and a rather unpleasant – transmissible – cancer has struck a large majority of the Devil population. Devils@Cradle has a small but significantly cancer-free population of Tasmanian Devils to help preserve the species. Its decline is very unfortunate, because Devils have an important role to play in the environment; like hyenas, they can hunt but also clear up remnants of carcases left by other predators. Sadly, if these carcases are roadkill, the Devils themselves are threatened by traffic; in their eagerness to consume the carcase, they just pile in and will still be on the road as the next vehicle comes along…
The Quolls too are under threat from urban development and, particularly, from the feral cat population, so the establishment is also involved in maintaining a breeding population and managing reintroductions.
Devils@Cradle, though, has no government funding, so depends on visitors for its money. One of the attractions they offer is a chance to see the animals being fed. It’s a very well-organised and information-rich activity. In our case, our guide was Sarah,
seen here displaying the wallaby legs that she would be using to feed the Devils. She was very knowledgeable, engaging and informative about the creatures, the need for conservation and the work that the centre is doing.
If you are of a sensitive nature, I suggest you skip the rest of this post, as it features images of bits of animals being torn to shreds.
Still here? OK, here are some still images of Devils being fed
(note the currawong, which is hanging around in case something is left over) and the quolls ditto.
Note that Sarah doesn’t just throw them the meat, because then they would just grab it and run for cover; to ensure they stay out for the punters, she attaches it to a hook so that the spectacle can be watched.
They may look cute, but, like the Bugblatter Beast of Traal, they’re very ravenous.
Here’s some video which might really put you off your dinner. You Have Been Warned.
It was a very interesting evening – informative and educational, albeit cold and wet as it rained towards the end of it, not that the animals cared.
So ended our day at Cradle Mountain. Tomorrow we head back east, for some R&R at Launceston in north central Tasmania. We have no formal activities booked but you can bet your sweet bippies that if it ain’t raining we’ll go for a walk. Obviously.
