Tag Archives: Landscape

Day 11 – Castiglione d’Orcia (almost) to Radicofani – Ford Focus

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Saturday 24 May 2025 – We knew that the day was likely to be a longish and toughish one, as the overall distance was going to be over 20km, but not as tough as it might be – despite the total lack of coffee stops. We were also aware that there were three fords to cross, a couple of which could be problemmatical after heavy rain. However, the weather has been dry, and so we hoped these wouldn’t present a problem; but there’s always the tinge of doubt in the back of the mind.

The “official” stage end should be Radicofani, which is at the end of a climb which the S-cape app describes as “challenging”. We, however, will stop short at an Agriturismo; tomorrow morning they will give us a lift into Radicofani, I’m glad to say.  All the above means that the elevation profile we had to deal with went as far as the chap in this pic.

This left us with a walk of about 21km and a climb towards the end of over 300m.

We bade goodbye to our room, which (as Jane discovered yesterday) has a great view of the Rocca fortress,

and headed down to breakfast, which was served in the restaurant linked to the B&B, the same place we’d had lunch yesterday, and was served from 8am – a bit later than we’d like, but never mind. It was a slightly rudimentary breakfast, and so we were on our way before 8.30. We passed the Pieve, of Santi Stefano and Degna, which was open, so we looked in.

Stained glass, presumably of the church’s two eponymous saints

Inside was the friendliest church cat

which was happy to meet both of us, and sat, possibly mournfully, watching us as we departed.

To get back to the offical Via Francigena, which doesn’t pass through Castiglione, we headed (steeply) back down the way we had (steeply) come up into Castiglione the day before. We made things slightly tougher than necessary by missing a turn and having to pant back up to it, but eventually joined the Via and got under way. In the extreme distance, we could see the tower of Radicofani’s fortess, which itself is quite a lot higher than the town.

Looking back, we had a great view of Castiglione in the morning sunshine.

The scenery was great, as one would expect on a sunny morning and viewed from altitude

and in the distance we could see Radicofani – just about.

For a long while we were on a dirt road, and this led us to another slip in navigation. The Via departed from the dirt road, but the signposting was very poor – practically invisible from the direction we were walking. Luckily, Jane noticed that we’d once again passed our turning, and we hastened back to get on the right track. It led past scenery of which one could say, in one’s Chandler Bing voice, “could it be any more Tuscan?”

At around halfway through the walk, we came to the first ford

which, as expected but still somehow to our relief, was not at all difficult to cross. Shortly after, there’s an abandoned hospital, Le Briccole (where St. Francis of Assisi is rumoured to have stayed at one point) and the chapel of San Pellegrino,

which we’d hoped might provide somewhere to sit in the shade for a bite to eat. Sadly not, but we benefited shortly after from the beneficence of Gruppo Trekking Senese, the Siena Trekking Group, who placed a picnic table along the track.

This provided a welcome rest stop, where we shared a banana and actually ate one of the Mule Bars which I’d carefully bought to fuel us for our Camino Francés a couple of years back, but which, until now, had remained uneaten. Thus fortified, we walked on, past a second

and a third ford.

Since there has been no rain of any pith or moment recently, these were easy to cross, but one could see that the third one could be quite dangerous if a flood were running through it.

The track became grassy

to the point where once again we sometimes found ourselves wading through waist-high grass. I was pleased to get a photo of an Old World Swallowtail butterfly

and we were generally well-serenaded by the wildlife as we walked along. Sometimes it was the frogs, but we also heard larks, blackbirds, blackcaps, swallows (or swifts) and, delightfully, nightingales. Over the kilometres, we’ve had a great selection of birdsong, including golden orioles and bee eaters, but I’m particularly pleased that we’ve heard nightingales in so many places along our walk.

The fortress tower of Radicofani was often visible in the distance, and sometimes the road even seemed to be leading us that way.

We passed a couple of places where sheep were being farmed; almost all the farming we’d seen so far was arable, so sheep were rare.

Our track led beside a river, the Torrente Formone.

Its name seemed a bit optimistic, but one could also see that it could be quite a sight in the rainy season. I was beginning to flag quite seriously at this point, and it seemed that Gruppo Trekking Senese had my number, as we passed another of their excellently-positioned picnic tables

(a crap view of the main road, but a very welcome rest point).

It seemed to me, in my weary state, that our destination was receding as we walked. Our destination was some 4km short of Radicofani, and seemed that we always had 4km more to go.

We forded the Formone (again being grateful that there hadn’t been heavy rain)

and started the long pull up to our accommodation, an Agriturismo establishment called La Selvella. Wearily, I took a photo of what I hoped might be it

but it wasn’t; it was much further on and much higher. Of course.

That establishment, though was very much agri but not turismo. We passed it, watched by (I assume) the farm cat

and later on (and yes, higher up) saw the sheep that they were farming.

Some of them had been saddle-sheared, leaving a patch of fleece on their backs; we’re not sure why. Anyway, it was their lunchtime and so they all ran off to collect their food when it was brought up.

Courtesy of the ICCE, we got an update on our journey;

only 147km to go, now!  I felt it was shame that the ones we were covering at that particular time were so emphatically uphill. The temperature wasn’t hot – maybe only 20°C – but we were in the direct sun all the time, and I was finding it hard going. I had to stop and take photos of the scenery now and then to give myself a bit of a rest.

Eventually, though, we got to our accommodation, whose gates were

closed, of course. Jane got on the blower to one of the numbers listed and they opened the gates and let us in.

We were checked in by the very friendly Max, who showed us (and, to our relief, carried our bags) to our room, which is all very nice – large, seemingly comfortable and equipped with the things that make our lives good: extra pillows for the bed, a bidet for Jane’s feet and a kettle for some of Twining’s finest Earl Grey. Dinner was not until 8pm, and so there was nothing for it but to relax (I indulged in the first bath I’ve had since 2002) after our fairly heavy day.

Tomorrow, as I say, we get a lift into Radicofani, for which I’m exceedingly grateful – the last 4km into the town are even harder than the last pull we had up to La Selvella. Then we head for Aquapendente, but things are a bit complicated, as one section of the trail runs along a major road and we have to phone someone to be driven along it, as it’s too dangerous to walk. So we probably only have about 20km to walk and most of them are downhill (but we can’t see any coffee stops). Who knows how this will work out? Not us – but we will report back to let you know.

 

Day 8 – Lucignano to Buonconvento – Short but interesting

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Wednesday 21 May 2025 – With only 13km to cover today, we could afford a leisurely start. Not too leisurely, though; our bags still have to be ready to be collected by 8am to be taken to our next destination. But at least the alarm was set for a slightly later time than heretofore.

The hotel had some interesting wall decorations: photos of places we have visited, such as Monteriggioni and San Gimignano and others, some of which we will pass through or near.  It also had a couple of items of Sienese interest: a picture of the 17 emblems of the contrade in suitably victorious poses

and a monochrome photo which gives a compelling insight into the excitement the Palio jockeys must inevitably face.

Breakfast (a typical Italian affair) over, we started out just after 9am, bidding farewell to Lucignano

as we carefully negotiated about half a kilometre of main road to get back to the Via, occasionally leaping into the undergrowth to ensure that the thundering great lorries missed us. (OK, I admit it – this was basically to avoid retracing our steps along yesterday’s lengthy diversion when a short cut – albeit not a recommended one – was available).

We rejoined the Via, which led over a railway

and then on a track beside it.

We had understood that the railway was practically disused, with traffic running only on special occasions, so I popped up to take some photos along the line (not very interesting) and to see whether walking along it was better underfoot than the path (not). So it was a bit of a shock when a train went past a few minutes later, I can tell you.

The temperature was agreeable – probably around 20°C, and the only signs of yesterday evening’s downpour were the reasonably high humidity, grass still wet on the track and some slightly slippy muddy patches. But getting our feet wet wasn’t a particular problem; we just walked on without any issues. The scenery was very agreeable and very Tuscan;

we will be going through the Val d’Orcia, which is a UNESCO World Heritage area where the extensive use of cypress trees was first adopted. As you can see, it has spread and is now a sort of pictorial shorthand for the landscapes of Tuscany.

Disused items of agricultural machinery were dotted around the area, original uses for which we wot not of (and neither, by the way, does Google Lens).

Also dotting the landscape were various artworks, some of which were definitely part of the “Museo de Arte Diffusa” (first works seen yesterday)

This one, at Ponte d’Arbia, probably represents pilgrims crossing the pilgrtim bridge

and some which probably weren’t.

At one point, astonishingly, we had the opportunity to fill in a questionnaire about our presence on the Via.

For the first time since we started out from Altopascio, we saw cattle;

and, later on, donkeys,

one of whom looked distinctly Eeyorish.

About halfway along the route was a place called Ponte d’Arbia, where, importantly, there was a coffee stop. Unsurprisingly, the place sported a bridge across the river Arbia,

but, we saw on the S-cape app, it also has a second bridge, the “Ponte del Pellegrino”. I was expecting this to be a rickety-rackety affair (minus the troll; trolls hate Italian sunshine), but I was very wrong indeed.

Located at the foot of the far side of the Ponte del Pellegrino

It was constructed in 2016, for a Jubilee Year (Giubileo della Misericordia) and renovated in 2024 in time for this year, which is also a Jubilee Year, albeit only a Giubileo Ordinario. (Both Jubilees were declared by Pope Francis.)

Ponte d’Arbia clearly has a local council who are invested in wayside art, no matter how incomprehensible.

After Ponte d’Arbia, we had to climb a couple of hills, the first quite small

but the second more substantial, and quite as steep as any of Siena’s streets, only longer.

The view from the top was nice, of course.

(I am really looking forward to doing a proper job of processing these images when I get home. What you see here is, broadly speaking, what comes out of the Sony camera, with a little tweaking via the Android Gallery app; but I will be able to benefit from a PC and my beloved DxO Photolab at home to get detail out of the RAW files.)

On our way up this final climb, we heard a very strange noise, which we first thought might have been some corvids having a row in the trees. But then we passed a pond,

and realised that the deafening racket was from frogs. I couldn’t capture them on video, but just listening to them provided a pleasing diversion for several minutes.

Going down the other side of the hill, in the distance, we saw Buonconvento

and were soon walking into the town,

which is not large, but its centro storico is very attractive.

Our hotel, the rather more modern Ghibellino,

had a room ready and our bags had arrived, so we were able to hose ourselves down and head out for lunch. Jane had booked, on the strength of proximity and Google reviews, a table for 2pm, and so we found our way to the Ristorante Bar Amici di Campriano.

It’s not a posh place and seems on the face of it a bit chaotic (it’s also a delicatessen), but we found ourselves a table and ordered ourselves a G&T (no ice – the machine was broken). We liked the look of a couple of the pasta dishes (unusual for me) and ordered them and some vegetables, but no secundi piatti. The pasta was delicious, but we were a  bit puzzled not to get the veg. It turned out that they were planning to wait and serve us the veg as our main course, which is very Italian, I suppose; but we got them to bring out the spinach and the fennel early, and very good it was, too. The service was very friendly and the whole thing was very good v. for m. We had a chat wth Il Patrone, who has his own vineyard and uses the place to serve his wine. All very engaging, if a little informal.

We pottered round the corners of Buonconvento after lunch. There aren’t many of them, as the centro storico is quite small, but it is lovely.

The church, of St. Peter and St. Paul, has some lovely stained glass.

It is clearly modern, featuring JFK, Gandhi, Pope John Paul II (we think) and Martin Luther King, as well as other faces we cannot indentify with certainty; but we feel that the common theme is that they all died for their faith or beliefs.

At first, I thought that Buonconvento would feature a good convent, but actually its name stems from the Latin bonus conventus, “happy place”. Not a bad name, I reckon – we found it very pleasant.

Today was a short and pleasant day. Tomorrow will be harder work!

The total ascent will be over 500m, so I feel the need for walking poles coming on. The weather forecast is OK – 24°C, no rain until later in the day – and there should be at least one place for a reviving coffee (and quite probably a beer) en route. We’ll be heading into the Val d’Orcia so I expect to be taking lots more photos of cypress-strewn landscapes. Come back soon to find out if that was the case, eh?

Day 4 – San Gimignano to Colle di Val d’Elsa – a fording delight

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 Thursday 15 May 2025 – The breakfast restaurant in the hotel, on its first floor, offers a view to jump start anyone’s day

and the breakfast buffet was a good and varied one – and sophisticated, offering, as it did, Twining’s finest Earl Grey tea! (Every hotel we’ve stayed in has had a varied selection of Twining’s tea, but this is the first one which had Earl Grey, which, clearly, makes the hotel a class act.)

Breakfast over, we started out on our walk, which was going to be about the same distance as yesterday’s but not as arduous; it was also described as “one of the most delightful routes” in the S-cape app. The destination was a place whose name was quite a mouthful – Colle di Val d’Elsa, but about which we knew nothing except that our accommodation, a B&B, was in a non-rural area somewhat short of what looked like the town centre on Google Maps. This just goes to show how wrong can be the impression you gain of a place through consulting Google Maps.

Immediately outside our hotel, the Cisterna Square (which is actually triangular) was taken over by an incipient market.

We thought the weather was nice – pleasantly cool – but the lady here was clearly freezing to death and was swaddled in fleece and jeans.

San Gimignano continued to be picturesque as we made our way out

but we passed some curiosities. There was a shop selling guns and knives, obviously for hunters, and this market extended to the tobacconist as well.

We had found it odd enough that Pisa featured a Torture Museum. Here, there were two, within a few yards of each other. It’s obviously A Thing.

We bade goodbye to San Gimignano old town

and started off through the outskirts, overlooking a view of a somewhat foggy valley.

A roundabout was the scene of a very Italian piece of parking.

Other views were more of the attractive churches and buildings on the outskirts,

with a great view back towards San Gimignano.

Yes, there were cranes in the skyline and cables in the foreground, but the astonishingly capable editor on my Samsung phone soon dealt with those little problems.

We soon exchanged the road for a track leading upwards

past, as ever, some lovely views.

I was particularly taken with the tufty nature of this olive plantation.

The track changed from dirt road to woodland track

and led down to a ford

which we navigated satisfactorily, if a little unsteadily.

After the ford, the track went up (of course!)

and I began to wonder whether my decision to pack away my walking poles had been a good one. However, the uphill work, here and for the rest of the walk, was largely in the shade and I found I didn’t really need the sticks.

There were lots of butterflies around and one obligingly stopped for its closeup.

It may be only a Common Blue, but it’s an attractive colour. From a photographic point of view, I’ve no doubt that I got a better image with the Sony camera I’ve been toting around with me than I would have got with my phone, talented though it is.

Several times since we’ve started this walk, we’ve seen the ground carpeted in small clumps of fluff, and we wondered what had given rise to them. On this walk, we found the answer:

Black Poplar trees spreading their seeds.

Having gone up, we came down again, to another ford, this one very easily negotiable.

The stream had formed a little pool of clear water, in which we could see that tadpoles were swimming about.

A little further on, we passed the remnants of an Etruscan tomb

and were, in turn, passed by a group of three very serious hikers, carrying vast backpacks, who we thought might be pilgrims, but actually turned out to be birdwatchers, judging by the photographic equipment they deployed.

Up we went again, and down again, to a third ford. The stream though this one was a bit more substantial

and the stepping stones were not the sort that would be easy to use for three elderly pilgrims, so drastic measures were needed to cross it.

Jane loved to cool water flowing across her feet; me, less so. But Jane had been provident enough to pack a towel, so I could dry my feet before we carried on. We found several philosophical musings (in Italian) posted by the path

The longest one translated thus: “Whoever walks in the woods is looking for a different, inner freedom that makes him master of his own life. Listen to your breathing; you will listen better to your emotions and the beating of your heart. Do not seek distractions: THIS IS YOUR PATH!” I suppose it was a bit counterproductive that we sought a distraction in the shape of a translation….

After a reasonably substantial upward push, we arrived at a “punto panoramico” as indicated on our interactive map.


This was practically the highest point of the walk, hence, I suppose, being able to see several kilometres back to our starting point. Our map also indicated a “punto ristoro” with an icon of a cup.  The description said there were no services on this route, so I was intrigued to understand what this meant.  At first, it looked like just a resting point in the shade

but closer examination revealed

a coffee machine and a vending machine. My joy on seeing this was complete when I discovered that the coffee machine accepted contactless payment! So we treated ourselves to a rest and a coffee before moving on.

We passed a few more curiosities:

Instructions to dog owners not to let their animals crap on this patch of land

A self-service artisan’s kiosk, with an honesty box for those wanting to buy a decorated shell….

…placed invitingly beside a bench for passers-by to rest on

The previous day, we’d seen olive trees being pruned in what seemed like an odd way, chopping off whole branches and thinning the foliage hugely.  We saw more evidence of this here, too.

This is very different from the olive trees we saw being harvested in the Canaries – tall trees with thick foliage, and pickers up long ladders to reach the crop. Jane researched this and it turns out that what we’re seeing here is a pruning pattern more appropriate for the Tuscan climate: more open to let sunshine hit more places and so that humidity doesn’t affect the fruit; and lower, to make the olives easier to pick.

The surroundings became more urbanised, and we eventually came to the edge of Colle di Val d’Elsa (which henceforth I shall simply called “Colle” for convenience and to save typestrokes).

There was a sort of dissonance between faux-ancient on the right and real ancient on the left. It turned out that the ancient bit was the entrance, through a gate, Porta Nova, to the historic old town of Colle, which is very attractive.

This meant that our accommodation, Arnolfo B&B (named after Arnolfo di Cambio, a sculptor, architect, and urban planner of the 13th century who was born in Colle di Val d’Elsa), rather than being stuck out in some random suburb, as I had originally thought, was actually right in among the centro storico of Colle. The walk to it took us past some fantastic views.

The layout of the place is a bit confusing to first-time visitors, and it took us a little while to find our B&B. We blundered around a bit until Caroline pointed that we were actually standing right outside it.

It turned out that we were in luck; it was a couple of minutes past 1pm, when the reception would be closed, but when we rang the bell we were let in and were able to check in, collect our bags and go to our rooms to change for lunch. We asked the chap behind reception about lunch times and he reeled off a whole series of restaurants we could visit. We ended up settling on one called Il Torrione

which was back by Porta Nova, and which had a terrace at the back with fantastic views over the old town.

We just crept in at 2pm as the gate crashed down and were able to persuade them to give us lunch, and a very fine lunch it was, too – A Nice Lunch, in fact.

We blundered about a bit after lunch because we had various imperatives to address: seeing the Duomo; getting our credenziali stamped; and getting some milk so we could make ourselves tea back at the B&B. We started heading towards the Duomo, a route that led us past lovely views of the old town

and a rather engaging statue, “Il bambino che è in noi”, “the child within us”.

The Duomo has an imposing interior

and several imposing chapels around the edge

with some striking detail work.

After seeing the Duomo, Jane went off to get the stamps and I got the mission to buy the milk. This is where the slightly strange layout of the place had a major impact. The old city (which has no grocery shops of any description) is really well above the industrial newer town (which seemed to have plenty, some of which might be open), and so I had to get from one to the other, which involved finding and tottering down a very steep ramp. It also involved blundering around looking for a supermarket which Google Maps swore was here. Yes, here. But it wasn’t. It was there; a couple of hundred yards away on a different street. I was so grateful to find the milk in this vast supermarket

that I failed to take advantage of the possible availability of Twining’s finest Earl Grey to replenish our rapidly-diminishing stock.

And then, of course, I had to walk back up this bloody ramp

 

Estimated by the protractor app in my phone to be 15° – that’s one in six, or, to be technical, sodding steep

in order to get back to the B&B. Because I got the rough end of this stick, I shall indulge myself by showing you the altitude profile of my afternoon’s wanderings.

Just goes to show what an Englishman will do for a cup of tea.

That pretty much ended things for the day, and we retired to our rooms to prepare for the morrow. We will be walking to Monteriggioni along a route that the S-cape app rhapsodises about. It will be slightly longer but a little easier than today, so I’m hopeful that I will be able to report on another good day once we reach our destination (and hopefully get another Nice Lunch). Check back soon to find out how it all went.