Tag Archives: Cityscape

Paddington, Barely

Wednesday 25 & Thursday 26 September 2024 – Our departure from Belrose was also a departure from my habit of taking a taxi to the airport.  Lorraine and Paul warned us against trying to convince a taxi company reliably to send someone into the northern wilds of the Sydney suburbs, so we took our first-ever Uber. We had a very pleasant drive with, at the wheel, a lady who was a Brisbane native and who was therefore able to give us a few thoughts about Things To Do In Brisbane. The traffic was a little heavy, and the journey to the airport took about an hour, but we arrived on schedule, with plenty of time before our flight’s departure; and in a thankfully undramatic departure from their established norm, Virgin Australia got us from Sydney to Brisbane without any form of buggering us about. My friend Phil was waiting there to take us to his place, which is in Red Hill, the area of Brisbane next to one called Paddington.

I’ve talked before about connections; thus far it has only been about those formed with fellow travellers.  The one between Phil and me is a lot deeper; we have been friends since babyhood. His family emigrated to Australia in 1967 as “ten pound Poms” (a phrase our Uber driver was so young that she’d never heard it, by the way), but Phil and I stayed in contact by letter over the years and met occasionally, as time, location, circumstances and finances dictated. Right from the first time we met again, which was in 1974, it was clear that the friendship had survived; that encounter, and every one since, has been a source of great pleasure.

Phil has a lovely house, which was originally a Queensland workman’s cottage and which, in true Australian fashion, was transported in one piece to its current location. It’s “upside down”, meaning the bedrooms are on the ground floor and the living space upstairs, and this makes great sense, given the usually hot Queensland climate; the downstairs rooms are the cooler ones, and it leaves a grand upstairs deck. Rather magnificently, the deck has a tree growing through it,

which provides shade for those sitting out on the deck with a glass of something cold, which was us, quite a lot of the time.

The Red Hill/Paddington area is an interesting one to walk around and so, for the first couple of days, and, with Phil and his insightful commentary, that’s what we did. Obviously.

The Queensland workman’s cottage vibe is something that is evident over the whole area that we strolled around.

Most of them are well-maintained and in very good nick and some

have been quite considerably extended.

There’s a variety of approaches to decor, from nice paint jobs and interesting roof tiles

to more elaborate flourishes on the larger buildings.

As well as the timber cottages, there are more substantial constructions

and some nice use of street art on the outside of some.

This, for example, is the local cinema

and it’s not just the front of the building that’s been decorated.

If you look at the left hand picture above, you can see that the area is not necessarily flat and level.  The gradients of some of the hills are simply breathtaking,

so walking about is akin to a major workout at times,

but the area’s location does mean that you get some superb views over downtown Brisbane.

So steep that handrails are needed to help you walk up it!

Among the many coffee bars and restaurants there are some interesting shops

Short Bach and sides?

and other little artistic touches.

The trees lining the roads make the streets very attractive,

and there’s one majestic specimen which is at the top of a hill

making one (OK, me) grateful for the shady seats in which to take a breather – and watch the laughing kookaburras which had come to laugh at us.

In the centre of Paddington there’s a building which used to be a theatre

now repurposed to house a huge variety of stalls selling antiques, bric-a-brac and a whole variety of other things.

Some angles give away the theatrical origins of the building – you can see the proscenium arch here.

Some wag in the local authority had had the idea to make a “Kooka Trail” around the area, presumably intended as a distraction for kids, but also valuable for the entertainment of passing photographers.

though I prefer the real thing, which we saw in various places, including near Phil’s house.

Apparently, kookaburras have been absent in recent years, and they’re only now making a reappearance. I like them, so was glad to be able to see (and hear!) them.

After two days and 11km of walking around this delightful part of the city, it was a pleasure to be able to sit on Phil’s deck with a glass of something cold as the sun went down

This describes our first couple of days in Queensland. We had two more days before heading even further North! and I’ll tell you all about it – some other time.

 

Interjection – completing the Melbourne staff work

Wednesday 4 September 2024 – For subscribers, or those reading through these pages sequentially, this entry will likely cause some confusion and I apologise for that. This page is about our last full day in Melbourne, which I accidentally forgot to write about at the time, possibly in the excitement of discovering the unusual way that Virgin Australia was buggering us about in regard to our forthcoming flight to Tasmania.

One of the great things about our time in Melbourne was – like our plans for Sydney and Brisbane – a chance to catch up with friends whom we hadn’t met for many years. The centre piece of today was A Nice Lunch with Sharon and David, a couple we had met on a walking holiday in Slovenia back in 2016; we had shared a house with them, walks up hill and down dale with them (lots of that in the Julian Alps in Slovenia!) and many laughs over lunch and dinner. We knew they lived in the Melbourne environs and so were delighted that they were prepared to do the slog into the city to share a lunch with us.

The venue was the Flower Drum, in Melbourne’s Chinatown, and a decent walk for us from the hotel. The walk gave us an opportunity to seek out some more of the various bits of street art that can be found in the city streets. On the way, we passed this sign

which might be said to sum up Australia – but only in a lovingly joking manner, you understand.

We revisited Hosier Street

and discovered (as reported earlier) that the painted-over artwork was still surprisingly unredecorated.

There was some grand statuary outside the Grand Hyatt hotel

and we passed the very attractive St. Michael’s Uniting Church.

Jane had discovered other corners to look for murals.

For lunch, we headed into Chinatown

and had a delightful couple of hours with Sharon and David, catching up on the intervening years since we last met. On holiday While travelling, one meets many people, but it’s rare to form a lasting connection with fellow travellers, and it was lovely to find that this connection was still strong.

After lunch we needed to go for a walk. Obviously.  We passed Parliament House

and found many more decorated buildings to gawp and attempt to photograph.

There was some great decor to be admired

and – possibly – a genuine Banksy!

This was alongside some other stencilled-type artwork.

On the way back to the hotel, I managed to get a reasonable photo of St. Paul’s Cathedral,

some nice mosaic artwork by Flinders Street Station

(sadly, the chap wasn’t about to leave; I think he was a bouncer) and some more building decoration on the way back to our apartment.

So ended our last full day in Melbourne, and a very pleasant one it was, too. The plans for the morrow were simply to get to Hobart in Tasmania, which we achieved, but not without, as I’d mentioned earlier, a frisson of frustration courtesy of the Virgin Australia ticketing system. To read all about that, the narrative continues here. Meanwhile, I’ll get back to our time in Brisbane, if that’s all right with you.  Sorry for the interruption of the otherwise smooth flow.

 

 

 

 

Arriving in Sydney

Thursday 19 September 2024 – Stop Press! Virgin Australia managed to get us from Canberra to Sydney without buggering us about! Another Saab 340B flight, uneventful except for a very lumpy descent into Sydney (possibly the most turbulence I’ve ever experienced in an aircraft), saw us on the ground, met by our driver and transferred in very short order to our hotel past a bit a street art that I don’t yet understand.

Our room wasn’t ready, of course. It was only midday by this stage, so this wasn’t a surprise. Official check-in time was 3pm, and so, having handed in our bags for safekeeping, we had three hours on our hands, the sun was shining and the temperature was warm. So we went for a walk. Obviously.

Actually, this was very convenient, as it gave us a chance to find out about a couple of transport options – train and ferry – that we would need to use over the coming days. The train bit was easy to understand, but the ferry timetables and destinations much less so; the map said that ferries that we were interested in taking went to one destination, the timetables insisted they went elsewhere. Our puzzlement was evident from our body language, which attracted one of the local Redcoats – volunteers patrolling the area to help bewildered tourists.  It was nice to chat to him, but less comforting to know that he, too, found the ferry information confusing.

It was good to re-acquaint ourselves, after nearly a quarter of a century away, with Circular Quay, probably the principal tourist area of the city.

An aboriginal chap regaled us with chanting

as we walked along, heading for The Rocks, with its jumble of older buildings

and its views back towards the city,

Circular Quay,

and over to the iconic views of the city: harbour bridge

and Opera House.

It’s a very photogenic area, looking towards Luna Park fairground and North Sydney.

We could also see Sydney Tower, which was called Centrepoint when we visited it on our last trip here.

The date of that visit is memorable:  twenty-three years ago, we’d just emerged from three days on a luxurious train journey from Brisbane, entirely insulated from the affairs of the world. It was a shock then to find out that the unexpected extra security measures in place for our visit to the tower were a consequence of the 9/11 terrorist attack on New York’s Twin Towers, which had happened just the day before.

We stopped for a bite of lunch and then headed back to our hotel, the Intercontinental, where our room was ready. The view from our 21st floor room was excellent,

but we had little time to enjoy the view as we had to get ready to go out for a late afternoon/early evening rendezvous with an ex-colleague friend whom I hadn’t seen for many years. We had agreed to meet in Newtown, a short train ride away.

Although it’s close to the city centre, Newtown is not a place where you’ll find lots of tourists.

It’s, erm, “vibrant”; lively, and a bit scruffy, and – at least for the bit we walked along – practically wall-to-wall eateries and drinkeries.

Our rendezvous was at the Newtown Hotel

which is a splendid building with quite a noisy interior (with a few artistic touches)

and a balcony, where we could sit and have a drink.

It was a good venue for meeting someone I hadn’t seen for many years and her husband, who we met for the first time.  We had a grand chat for a couple of hours before they had to go for a family event and it augurs well for the next few days, where – here and in Brisbane – we’ll be meeting friends we haven’t seen for some while; it’s rather nice to be able to indulge ourselves with travel and simultaneously keep in touch with friends in far-away places.

After our drinks, we pottered back to the station

past reminders that not everyone is as fortunate as us

and, having taken one last look at Luna Park, now illuminated in the dark,

turned in for the night. We have nothing formal organised for the morrow, but our chat this evening has given us one good idea for somewhere to go that looks like it could be an interesting excursion. Come back and find out where that was, won’t you?