Thursday 18 September 2025 – After what seemed like, oh, only ten days or so, here we are travelling again. Oh, wait – it is only ten days. We’ll have to try to get a better handle on our plans to give us just a little more time between trips. Anyway: travelling, so the alarm went off again at some obscure hour (actually 0500, to be precise). A remarkably smooth and well-choreographed set of movements around the house saw us up, packed, breakfasted and ready to go just as the taxi arrived to take us to Heathrow.

Our flight was uneventful, but a bit cramped for me; BA is obviously squeezing its customers as well as its margins, and we touched down in Bucharest only slightly earlier than our transfer driver had evidently expected. But we linked up eventually and had a somewhat traffic-laden journey to our accommodation while in the city, passing one of the reasons that Bucharest has the nickname “Little Paris”.

Our hotel is the Hotel Minerva, which is just this hotel, really; but it has air con (needed, because it’s nice and warm and sunny at the moment in Bucharest), a kettle and a fridge. Our room had clearly been set up for single occupancy, but the chap on the front desk, Vlad (yes, really), promised to arrange extra towels and pillows for us.

It was getting on for 4pm by that stage and we were somewhat peckish, and Vlad The Receptionist suggested the names of a couple of restaurants in the old town that we could investigate. So we went for a walk. Obviously.

Actually, we didn’t. The old town is a half-hour walk from the hotel and we were hungry, so we decided to take the metro, the nearest station of which was only 5 minutes walk away. It took us past a couple of buildings which give a clue to what I suspect is the often tumultuous history of the country: a fine (if slightly dilapidated) house which would not be out of place in central Paris;

and one which screamed “communist era brutalism”.

We’re due a walking tour of the old town tomorrow so doubtless will learn a great deal more; I might even remember some of it with which to regale you. It being a capital city, there are a few down-and-outs on the street, some just plain begging and some having an entrepreneurial spirit.

We got to the station, where we discovered that one could buy a mag stripe card good for 10 journeys for 40 lei (about £7), which we decided would suit our purposes for today and subsequent visits, and descended into the bowels of the metro.

It became swiftly apparent that it was rush hour. People were streaming in great numbers, observing a “keep right” rule which is occasionally written on the walls, and means that great numbers can make their way smoothly in opposing directionds, but which makes life complicated when you find yourself, as we did, on the wrong side of a stream. We forced our way through by being very British and apologising for any injuries we caused en route, and got on a southbound train, which was like rush hour metro trains in every major city.

We emerged into nice warm sunshine at the central station called Unirii. Heading towards our restaurant, we passed more of what looked very much like communist-era apartments

and also some much older and more charming buildings.

On the right is St. Anthony Church,

which is a Romanian Orthodox church and, it transpires, the oldest religious building in Bucharest. We popped in and admired its striking interior.

There was a steady stream of people paying their respects at the altar.

They all had a particular ritual they observed in bowing and crossing themselves in a specific order. Around the side and back is a place for people to light candles and pray

It was very interesting for our short visit and doubtless we’ll come back on tomorrow’s tour to learn more about what is a very beautiful building; but for now we were peckish and so headed to one of Vlad’s recommended restaurants Hanul Manuc (which means, we’re told, “Manuc’s Inn”.

Through the arch is a splendid courtyard

On the edge of the courtyard are a bar and a kitchen, which was cooking up a storm.

Our waiter, Marius, introduced us to the local Apricot Palinka, a very tasty liqueur, and we indulged ourselves in some Romanian cuisine (well, the menu said it was, and who are we to argue?): stuffed cabbage leaves for Jane and “Mici” – skinless sausages – for me. It was delicous and the dougnuts with cream and blueberry jam we had for dessert were simply gluttony. There were beggars here, as well.

Heading back to the hotel (via a supermarket to get milk for our tea), we passed this sign:

Who knew that Bucharest was the first city to be illuminated by kerosene lamps? Not us, that’s for sure.

I took a few more photos in the metro on the way back – the stations are quite imposing, in a largely brutalist kind of way.

We have the whole day in which to explore Bucharest tomorrow, including a guided walking tour in the morning. Before we head up to the north of the country for the main objective of our time in Romania, I’m quite looking forward to getting to know this city a little better.